Ryan S Posted January 29, 2021 Report Posted January 29, 2021 Hey all! Beginner fly tier here. Fresh off a intro class from Chicago Fly a few weeks ago. My first rod is a 4 wt that I picked up a few seasons back. Tied up about ten #6 clousers to fish on it at the recommendation of some of the members here. Thanks for the advice! Let me know what you think! Quote
John Gillio Posted January 29, 2021 Report Posted January 29, 2021 Looks great Ryan. That will surely catch fish. The Clouser has been a top producer for myself and many other smallie fishermen. 👍 Quote
rich mc Posted January 29, 2021 Report Posted January 29, 2021 nice and sparse hard to tell if a few strands of crystal flash is in there . Quote
Ryan S Posted January 30, 2021 Author Report Posted January 30, 2021 Thanks all! Figured a classic, easy to fish, and effective fly like the clouser was a good one to start tying at the beginning. Yep a couple strands of crystal flash not showing well due to the wood and light. Is the idea to keep the clousers pretty sparse? Practicing the wooly buggers, pheasant tail nymphs, and bought some materials for some chernobyl ants (I think at the recommendation of Mark). I've got a 4 wt so not quite ideal for smalies but hey.. one step a time. Let me know what other beginner flies I should look to next! Also got to make one of these upcoming fly tying tutorials! Didn't get a chance to make it the first one. Quote
Rob G Posted January 30, 2021 Report Posted January 30, 2021 1 hour ago, Ryan S said: Is the idea to keep the clousers pretty sparse? Yes, sparse wings add to the transparency of the fly and allow for better movement. Bob Clouser thought that transparency was one of the best traits of his minnow as he felt that many baitfish are almost translucent in water. Also I once heard Bob mention that he ties his own Clouser Minnows so sparse that he couldn't tie those in that same manner for his own fly shop because no one would buy them, even though he felt the really sparse ones were more effective . Quote
rich mc Posted January 30, 2021 Report Posted January 30, 2021 for another fly try a foam gurgler and tie them with the foam going each way one is popper like ,reversed its a diver rich Quote
Jim Wright Posted January 31, 2021 Report Posted January 31, 2021 Well done! The Clouser is a great intro to tying. Less is more with this pattern for sure. Keep it up! Quote
Bart Durham Posted February 1, 2021 Report Posted February 1, 2021 Ryan, maybe we can tie this fly at Terry'szoom open fly session on the 14th of this month? Quote
Mark K Posted February 7, 2021 Report Posted February 7, 2021 One thing you can do to make the fly bomb proof is get some 5 minute epoxy (or UV resin) and coat the head and the wraps on the underwing. Quote
Ryan S Posted February 8, 2021 Author Report Posted February 8, 2021 On 1/30/2021 at 7:39 AM, rich mc said: for another fly try a foam gurgler and tie them with the foam going each way one is popper like ,reversed its a diver rich Gonna give this one a try! Thanks for the advice! Quote
Ryan S Posted February 8, 2021 Author Report Posted February 8, 2021 5 hours ago, Mark K said: One thing you can do to make the fly bomb proof is get some 5 minute epoxy (or UV resin) and coat the head and the wraps on the underwing. Mark- I have some Hard as Hull Hareline Dubbin head cement that I coated the belly wraps and head with. Same thing? As a beginner, is there really a difference I will notice in those fancy UV resin + light I see on social media? Quote
Mark K Posted February 8, 2021 Report Posted February 8, 2021 11 hours ago, Ryan S said: Mark- I have some Hard as Hull Hareline Dubbin head cement that I coated the belly wraps and head with. Same thing? As a beginner, is there really a difference I will notice in those fancy UV resin + light I see on social media? Yes, there is a huge difference when it comes to durability and they are kind of different purposes. Head cement is basically lacquer. You use it more for just sealling a coupler of thread wraps. it soaks in and you really dont see it. Sally Hansens Hard as nails (clear nail polish very popular with fly tyers- is probably better for durability. Epoxy and the UV stuff, you actually build up a durable glossy head with it. I t dries hard as a rock. 5 minute epoxy is cheap and easy. Disadvantages is the fumes coming off it are not so good for you and with age it can turn yellow. The stuff they coat rod wraps with is a 2 part epoxy. I just got I just got the UV system. So far it's really terrific. This light is half the price of the ones intended for fly tyers and it works just fine with solarez. UltraFire UV Flashlight 395-405 nm Led Blacklight with 18650 battery and charger for curing UV glue, Leak Detector, Pet Urine Stain - - Amazon.com I highly, highly doubt that the ones that sell for 50 bucks and up are made in a different factory in China. If money is an issue, go to home depot get some two part epoxy. Get something to mix it on. A bathroom tile works good and a couple toothpicks. Work with good ventilation. People who do a lot use a rotating dryer. But if are just doing a couple you can just twirl it by hand or in a rotary vise. When you coat a clouse the way Bob Clouser does in the book it becomes nearly bombproof. Quote
Mark K Posted February 8, 2021 Report Posted February 8, 2021 I should mention. Some people develop a sensitivity to both epoxy and or the UV resin. I don't know anybody first hand who has issues with it doing fly tying, but I work in graphic arts where similar chemistry is used and yeah, there I've come across people who got sensitized to UV. Quote
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