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I don't "stash" them, I keep 'em out in the open. TIP: keep switching the rod/reel rigs around, mix 'em up, fly, spinning, casting, floating--- short, long, etc it gives the illusion they're used often and they've been there all the time.

I was wade fishing under the State St bridge in S Elgin---west side of the east side bridge piling. My feet got tangled in some heavy weight fishing line, that was entangled in some rebar. I pulled out my trusty serrated bowie knife and reached down to cut the line---my arm and wrist came in contact with some rebar---as I raised my hand/arm upward, my watch band got caught on the end of the rebar. At this time, I was losing my balance, and didn't want to topple over into the water, and take a dunking. I quickly pulled up, and became fully upright----as I was sheathing my knife, I noticed my watch was missing. I reached down and around all those rocks and broken concrete---but didn't come up with it. I got home quite late that evening, from my wade trip--- my wife already had dinner waiting for quite some time. The grilled steaks, potatos and all, were cold. I told her I lost my watch--- she said, "ya right", "you probably traded it in for another Loomis Rod".

>>>>........... the little red car with all the hippy stickers, ......<<<< Stickers can be very handy--- they can cover up the rust spots. .....and bullet holes in some circles.

>>>...all the guides on the West Coast use it for river steelhead fishing...<<< ??? Some anglers like it, when its "NEW"--- however, after extended use, many throw it away, and go to something else. Fireline is coated with a dye colorant, and rapidly wears off with use. When the color wears off, the "white" base color is now visible. The line, when used in stained or muddied waters, rapidly absorbs the color of the dirtied water, and is nearly impossible to see for farther distances away from the angler. A floating hi-vis line, can be seen for greater distances, is most desireable for float fishing streams/rivers for steelhead. Berkley offers a Hi-Vis "SOLAR" mono line, that is highly visible. It's bright greenish in color. Night-time anglers, using a "black light", favor this line.

Korkers offers studded soled sandles. I have a pair, that I use on my lugged soled hip boots and waders---they work very well.

My recommendation is Cortlands Endurance--- available in Clear, Hi-Vis Yellow and Hi-Vis Orange. Low memory, low stretch, very strong for its dia to strength ratio. The best I've used, to date. Endurance is a Super-Mono---(a coplymer line)---the best mono on todays market. This line is exclusive to Cortland. All my customers, that I've introduced to the Endurance Super-Mono, like it better over other lines they've used, and have since spooled up all their reels, like it better over other lines they've used, and now use this line exclusively. I know there are anglers who have their preferred lines--- but, the Endurance is the BEST. Stop by GAT's, see me, and I'll spool up your son's reel, (NC), with the above noted line of your choice.

You do that too?

Lots of water, coming down from the northern region. Many areas are wadeable. Presently, the water level is not too high for a successful spawn. Most areas seem to be at a suitable level, right now. The fish are on or near their bedding sites. Many are near shore, in water less that 2ft deep. Many beds are further out from shore, in deeper water, and you don't see the beds. Personally, I don't wade the areas, so as not to disturb their spawning grounds. If the water drops too fast during the spawn, and exposes their beds, the fish can be easily removed by anglers, and the eggs will be exposed to other critters, and they'll clean out the nest pretty quick. Smaller fish, such as bluegill, yellow bass, white bass, drum, or the like, are mingling around the beds. When the SMB are removed from the nesting are, those critters will move in real quick, because the nest is not protected. When a SMB is caught by an angler, and released, the fish doesn't return to the nest right away---it's left unguarded and subjected to being cleaned out. I hope the water level stays where it's at for the next few weeks. Anglers will have plenty of time to wade, after the spawn is over. Mother nature knows what she's doing.

I know this is under the bassbuggers forum and about flys--- but--- I'd like to add something here, re EYES. When I was first introduced to jigs, they had "eyes". I purchased jigs with eyes, and I made jigs with "eyes". Why? Because that was the norm. Lures and jigs had to have eyes. While fishing the Kank, I'd bounce my jig off the rocks, dragged the jigs it on the bottom, and caught lots of fish. As the eyes and paint wore off, I still caught fish. ??? hmmm.... why am I wasting time painting eyes on jigs? I quit putting eyes on jigs, and still caught fish. I believe a fish approaches a bait from the side, underside, or rear, and takes the offering---it doesn't see if there's an eye on the jig. A fish just reacts---the object looks like something to eat. A jig with eyes, looks better, it catches the fisherman.

That's Great! Great pic. I'm sure that fish was caught on a "Jonn's Swim Jigs".

Jonn, you're statements---- >>>...shimanos bind when they get wet<<< >>>I expect a reel that cost over 100 smackers to not bind up when it is simply raining!!!!!<<< >>>.....the anti reverse quits working when the air temp is below 40 degrees!!!!<<< Your blanket statements, which implys that Shimano reels are inferior, are NOT TRUE.

The nice thing about a reel with the "flippin" feature, is that when you release the spool release button, the spool engages instantly---without having to turn the handle to engage the spool, to take up line. An angler has instant engaging of the spool, when the button is released. Shimano's Castaic reel has a one-piece thumb bar, that on both sides and top of the opening to the spool, a very nice and a handy feature design. Most other reel models, with the flippin feature, have a switch setting, labeled "F" or "flip"---the angler moves the lever to this position to activate the flippin feature. In the "off" position, the reel handle has to be turned to engage the spool, as in conventional casting presentations. The "flippin" feature is very efficient when flippin & pitchin, short distances, as in bass fishing, when placing your lure a short distance to a specific target. The flippin technique is very effective, and is generally used with 7-7.5ft rods. Some avid bass anglers, prefer to cast with their right hand, and retrieve with their left hand---vs switching hands---cast with your right hand, move the rod from your right hand to your left hand, then turn the reel handle with your right hand to engage the spool. Reels with the "Flippin" feature, are also favored by many avid walleye anglers, when verticle jigging or pulling, and maintain contact with the bottom. When you're verticle jigging or "bouncing the bottom", and suddenly, while working a down-the slope drift, the jig is off the bottom----you can depressed the button, allow line to pay-out 'until the jig touches bottom again, and release the buttom to engage the spool, without having to turn the reel handle. A very handy feature for the angler when using two rods simultaneously, verticle jigging or pulling. This technique is practiced by some avid bass anglers, working a down-ward slope, so as to keep in contact with the bottom, at all times. When a fish strikes, you set the hook, place the other rod in a holder, and commence bringing the fish to the boat.

Jonn, I've made offers to you on previous ocassions---numerous times--- if you have an issue with your Shimano reel, call me, send the reel to me, and I'll get the issue/problem resolved for you. To date, you HAVE NOT taken me up on the offer, and still complain about getting "stiffed". ???? Please, put in writing the issues and problems you've encountered, send them to me--- I will personally get the issues addressed. Thanks.

My #1 choice of low profile BC reel for flippin and pitchin, is Shimano's Castaic. The Castaic has outlasted and outperformed all other reels flippin reels I've used. There are some models on the market that will perform okay, for the average angler. There are some models on the market that don't hold up to the heavy pressure for wenching fish out of heavy cover. Buy the best you can afford, if you are a serious flippin/pitchin angler. NOTE: Something to consider when buying a reel, is the after sales service support an OEM gives. Shimano is #1 in the business. For flippin' rods, my choices are GLoomis, St Croix and Shimano. There are other flippin' rods that will do the job, but for limited use.

The #1 superline scissors on todays market is available from Cortland. They will cut the finest individual thread of a multi-thread superlines. I've been using these Cortland NEW superline scissors for over 8 months now. These superline scissors are used several times a day, 7 days a week, and they're still cutting like new. These scissors have lasted longer over all the superbraid line scissors I've tested. The hook points can be held "closed", by placing a 1/4" dia x 3/8" long piece of latex tubing over the ends, slide them down to the pivot joint. When the blades are opened, the latex expands, and when released, the latex extracts and the blades close and stay closed. Some brands of superbraid scissors function okay when new, but after extended use, they don't cut. There are some brands on the market, that are worthless for cutting superbraid lines. Some cut fine when they're new, but after repeated use, they just don't cut. "Serrated" blades are more effective for cutting superbraid lines.

I make or reform the end of the wire arm into a "round" closed loop.

I fish a white or chart/white spinnerbait, frequently, in the Fox River, and do very well. However, a "hammered copper" blade, is more productive over other blades, whether clear, stained or in muddied water. In muddied water, I use a larger blade size, and swim it slower. I fit the end of the spinnerbait wire, with a snap/swivel, so as to make quick blade changes. Works for me.

Eric, Couldn't you use that 16' rod, in lieu of a wading staff, for prodding out in front of you, while wading? And, if you keep a short lead on the line to lure, from your rod tip, you could just reach down into those holes, rock ledges or the like, and catch a fish. Accomplish two things at the same time. Also, the longer rod may come in handy to do those "figure 8's", out a distance in front of you. During the figure 8 maneuver, a 6' rod may cause the line/lure to tangle around your legs--- so when the fish strikes and you set the hook, you could easily pull your feet out from under you and go down.

Cortlands MasterBraid is available in the following colors: *Bronzeback Brown--- (#1 color choice and very appropriately named, by avid SMB anglers). *Hi-Vis Yellow---Highly visible under all light conditions. Favorite amongst line watchers and float/drift fishing anglers. This line color can be see the furthest distance. I float fish around and under several bridges---you can easily see where the line is going, and when it stops moving or paying out. *Seafoam Green---( top color choice of many saltwater anglers). Since introducing many anglers to the Cortland MasterBraid, many are converts, and now prefer the line to any other superbraids currently on the market. BTW---GAT sells more Cortland Masterbraid line over all other superbraid lines on todays market. What difference does color make? Like Scott noted---I agree, fish don't know what line is. There lots of stuff in the water---weeds, wood, rocks, and the like. Why do most successful fly anglers use hi-vis floating fly line? So they can see it. When fishing clear water and using high-vis lines, I add a tippet of clear line. Akin to a fly angler, using a leader/tippet on a fly line. I've fished with the Bronzeback Brown, in clear water, and outfished anglers using clear line! Why? I could see the line move or not move, when a fish picked up the lure/bait, and could set the hook much sooner. Clear line can blend in very well with the waters surface, and you may not observe whats going on. A fish can pick up and spit out the bait, in a split second. With a Hi-Vis line, I feel I have a big advantage. Anglers with vision issues, prefer the hi-vis lines over clear lines. Successful float fisherman, fishing for steelhead in gin clear waters, also prefer a hi-vis line. ============ For the best mono, on todays market, my #1 choice is Cortlands Endurance Supermono Line---(a coplymer line). Presently available in clear, hi-vis yellow and hi-vis orange. Hi-vis yellow can be seen for great distances. The orange is outstanding for the ice fishing anglers. Very visible on the ice and snow--- whereas, clear line blends in and gets lost.

Rob, Cortlands MasterBraid, a superbraid line, color DOES NOT wear off, as with most other superbraid lines on todays market. Most other superbraids are coated with a colored wax-like material, that wears off rapidly during use. Lots of good info on the matter has been presented, in previous posts.

There are many anglers who prefer a 7ft rod. And, there are some anglers who are more comfortable with a 6.5 or 6ft rod.

PS---Lake Paradise, is nearby. This is an excellent crappie and LMB lake. Small boat launch area on the north end of the lake. (See local map for back roads and boat ramps).

I've haven't been there, this year, YET! I've fished the lake many times over the years. A great body of water. Crappie BIG gills LMB LMB early spring: Rubber legged jigs and trailer (pork or plastic). Black/Blue Black/Chart Work if slow, or swim it, with pauses. Crappie: Shallow---work the wood. Mini-Mite or 1.5" tube baits, dressed with a waxworm, and rigged under a slip-float. Locations: Rocky shoreline areas. Grassy shoreline areas. Boat docks Wood (laydowns). Fish all the points and go up in the coves. Worked for me. ps---if you're at the Marina boat docks, and see the local Sheriff, tell him the "Mini-Mite Man" said HI!

Mike, Joining the ISA for a $25 investment, is well worth it. The newsletter alone will provide you with more info, in one issue, that you could possibly learn in a year, fishing by yourself, or watching the "Watch Me Fish" shows on tv. Besides, you may get to fish with some of the "top-notch" smallies anglers in the country, and you won't have to drive to Wisc, Canada or Lake Erie---- thus saving lots of gas money to buy more tackle. Once I've learned the benefits of fishing the Chicagoland area lakes, ponds, streams and rivers, I'm to busy fishing to put my boat in the water or go to Wisc.

5 minute epoxies generally aren't waterproof. Such that exposure to moisture, high humidity, or the like, for extended periods, will result in unsatisfactory results. (To date, I haven't found a waterproof 5 min epoxy). A few jig manufacturers, like the Cubby Jigs, use 2 "spray-on epoxy" coats, as a top coat. I've generally used "head cement", as an overall sealer/coating. It's quick drying, very durable, chip resistance and remains transparent. Epoxy can be dried at a faster rate, at a slightly elevated temperature. (You'll need to check with the OEM, for their recommended procedures). NOTE: there are some materials that contain chemicals that will effect some materials. It's best to try it on small objects or surfaces before proceeding to a larger area or with production. Akin to the super-stretchy plastic lures that will melt some tackle box trays. Some plastic materials will soften when in contact with some paints & finishes.