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Bussbaits equipped with a "quad" wing (four blades)---I like to use for fishing "SLOW". Yes, the plastic blades can break, when banged against a hard object, such as concrete or steel walls, and rocks. Tanden-double-bladed, "counter-turning" blades make for lots of surface commotion. They spray lots of water, when moved at a rapid rate. These type buzzers, are getting popular, with some avid anglers--- bass as well as pike and musky anglers. Tri-wing blades are also popular, with a few anglers. Adding a plastic bodied trailer, also gives the lure a larger profile. Single-tail grubs are the most commonly used trailers---however, twin tail grubs provide more surface commotion, on the trailing end. A large grub, with the "c-tail" cut-off, half-way around, results with the grubs trailing end, waving in a side to side motion, vs a cork-screw like fashion. A "stinger hook" can be added---beneficial when fish are striking short. Some anglers use a trailer hook all the time, and their catch rates have increased. Works for me.

The 30lb test is a little larger diameter, and may result in improved castability. I've been using the MasterBraid, for 2 years now, on several ""Shimano"" Bait-Casting reels and spinning reels, and haven't experienced any of the problems you've noted. Never had a break-off during casting. Some anglers may experience a break-off during casting, due to "snap-casting" of some lures. It's also recommended by some, to use a "palomar" or "trilene knot", when joining lures, or the like, when using superbraid lines. I've experimented with various knots, and the two (noted above), are the strongest.

I'm sure many anglers are not familar with Cortland's MasterBraid line. It's not stocked in the big box or X-Marts stores.

Jonn, I've used the brand a few years back, and for several weeks thereafter. I was not satisified with its performance, and switched to other superbraid lines. Perhaps the OEM has made some recent improvements, in their processes of making their braided line. FYI--- the Dyneema ® fiber, presently used in the thigh quality superbraid lines is identical. Each line OEM has their own process, to make their braid/weave and each has their own means of top-coating the line. http://www.dsm.com/en_US/html/hpf/home_dyneema.htm

Jim, "Stainless steel" is the insert ring in rod guides. The guide frames are made of coated or plated steel wire. The stainless insert rings shouldn't pose a problem with line. Some OEMs have changed to the stainless steel insert rings in their rod guides, because of the ceramic type inserts getting damaged, due to misuse and abuse. Also the OEM's costs are less than. There are various grades of the stainless steel guides on the market. Cheap ones are found on some low cost rods. Some OEM's are using "titanium" rod guides, on their high-end rods. These are the most durable; however they cost a lot more. PS--- Some quality fly rods, on todays market, employ "titanium" coated wire eyes. These are suppose to be the newest and most durable. I've installed some of these new tip-tops on my fly rods---the eye is also larger over the regular plated eyes, found on most fly rods on todays market. The larger tip-top eye results in less snagging and catching of the knotted joints, where the leader and fly-line is joined, and less hangups with the "leader loops", that some fly anglers use.

>>>........... totally impervious to abrasion<<< Interesting..... Is that what the OEM claims? "piano wire" and bicycle spokes are very abrasion resistant. After trying several different superbraid lines, I've settled on Cortlands MasterBraid. Its formulated for spinning reels---NO "wind knots", loops, or knotting. MasterBraid is NOT coated. Nodules form on coated lines, as the coating wears/rubs off--- making for snagging/catching when one is casting. The nodules contribute to an increase in backlashes, on level-wind reels. Since using Masterbraid, I don't experience any snagging, and backlashes are nearly eliminated. The best superbraid line I've found, to date.

I'm sure someone thought it was a good idea. ;-)

Leader lengths? When you peruse a tackle/fly shop, there are so many lengths to chose from. What are the advantages/disadvantages of, 9ft 8ft 7.5ft 6ft Thanks for your inputs.

Congrats Don. That takes "skill" to catch clams on the river bottom. Says a lot for a guy who has mastered "depth and speed control".

Keep it simple--- Arm yourself with some Yamamoto 3.5" Kut-Tails worms, (color 297, Green Pumplin/black flake), some Gamakatsu #4 EWG offset worm hooks, and 1/16 oz bullshot weights. The Kut-Tails worms will catch you lots of fish. After you get bored catching fish, then you can experiment with all that other stuff.

check it out good info http://www.smallmouth.org/MissouriSneakyPete.html http://www.questoutdoors.net/skills/ftying...opwater/sneaky/

Removing line-twist in fly line: Feed out the floating fly line in moving water---(without a leader/tippet attached to the fly line). Allow the line to float down stream, until you reach the backing. Allow the line to lay on the moving waters surface, in the current, for a few minutes. Then wind the fly line back onto the fly reel. All the line twist will be gone. Akin to twisted mono line---allow several yards to be dragged behind a moving boat, (lures and hardware removed) ---for several minutes--- allowing the line to straighten out---the line twist will be removed, and you're back in business. Works for me.

Reducing/eliminating line twist: Placing a miniture "crane style" power-swivel, (SPRO #10, stainless steel, black nickel finish), about 8" on the line, ahead of the lure. This miniture swivel is very strong (35# test) for its size---very light---(equiv to a #16-18 of other brands, rated 10-15lb test). This swivel turns as smooth a some brands of ballbearing swivels, on todays market, and the SPRO brand is much smaller in size. Works for me.

I believe, that's why Berkley labels theirs "Lightening Rods".

Make a smaller mouse.