kend

You'll need a good camera with a "macro" feature. I'd suggest you visit a camera shop and discuss your objects with the camera experts. I have an Olympus, that does a good job. Higher priced models will produce professional looking results. I mainly use mine for quick fish pics. I'm able to get close-up pics of objects in the palm of my hand, in the macro mode. Pics will turn out more clearer, if the camera is held still---without the slightest of movement.

Steve, I use an "insert" weight. They're packaged by Lunker City, the company who produces Sluggos. A diagram is provided on the package back side, for your viewing. The insert weight can be used in a variety of plactics---from small to large sizes. They can be easily cut down, using line clippers, for very little added weight, to using multiple inserts for larger plastics and more weight, adn fishing deeper. Positioning of the insert weight, should be in such a way, so as to maintain the lure in the horizontal position, whether fished shallow or deep, slow of fast. One should take into account, the line size and weight, which will have an effect on the lures orientation and balance. Place the weight in the sluggo, so its slightly front heavy. This will compensate for the lines resistance in the water. You will have to try it a few times, by trial and error, to get the optimum balance. Insert weights can be found in some tackle stores. Hope this helps.

The HD zip-lock style freezer bags work good for me, as well as the Yamamoto baits bags. There are also HD zip lock bags available, in various sizes, available from Shimano, GLoomis, Plano and others. The ziplock style bags lay flat---several can be stored in the Tals Wade Pack. I often use a Plano 5 compartment tackle box---the 4x7 size---remove a divider or two, customize teh compartments to suit the spinnerbait size. One desing I made, has one larger cmopartment on each side, with a smaller compartment in the center, to store spare blades. I carry a variety of spare blade to facilitate a variey of presentations, with using only 2 or 3 spinnerbait bodies. Works for me.

Another plus with Cortland MasterBraid--- The "STIFF" version, (look for the marking on the package) --- formulated for spinning reels, as well as casting. NO WIND KNOTS, like with other superbraids.

I've been using Olympus all weather camera's for several years. I've taken pics in damp weather and in the rain--- to date never had a malfunction. My current model is the Olympus all weather, digital stylus 410, with a macro feature. It is a water resistant camera---NOT waterproof. It contains waterproofs seals/rings or the like. I've taken pics in rain, snow, cold (sub zero temps) and hot weather alike. It's hasn't failed me yet. Its small in size, fits in my fishing vest pocket for ready access. The macro feature is great to have, for those very close-up shots. The macro feature is a big plus. This camera has been in service for 2.5 years. It's most ideal for my applications and uses---outdoors in all types of weather conditions, from cold and hot, dry and raining. Takes great pics. Newer models are available on todays market.

Superbraids--- I've started using the Spiderstealth, before it came out on the store shelves. I've found it better that other superbraids. It's rounder shape is better than the flat braids. The coating wears off rapidly---I probably make more casts in one day than most do in a season---so the line wears faster and takes a lot more abuse. In some areas, the coating bunches up and nodules form---resulting in backlashes. ======= I’ve found the best on today’s market is Cortlands Masterbraid A true round braid, unlike others that are flat. Masterbraid is a fused braid---unlike other superbraids that are not fused. The color is impregnated into each strand of the multi-strand braid. Other superbraids on the market are coated. The coating wears off, and the white base material appears. The Cortland Masterbraid line is available in Bronzeback Brown---ideally suited for our streams and rivers---thusly, BRONZEBACK BROWN. (My pic for like color). The 10lb line works exceptionally well on the small dia spools---such as the 1000 series ( Light) Shimanos reels and as well as the 2000/2500 series (ML) sizes. 20lb Masterbraid serves me very well on the 2000/2500 or ML series reels as well as the low profile casting reels, like Shimano’s Chronarch and Curados, as well as the small size round reels. To date, I haven’t had any line lockups using 20lb line on baitcasters, when fitted on a light action rod, and using light weight lures. I was highly surprised and very pleased how this line performed, while fishing in some heavily weeded areas. The line is superthin and slick, that it literally cuts thru weeds---and better yet, when you have a fish on---allowing it to swim and thrash around, it cuts thru the weeds---like no other superbraid lines I’ve used. Most times bringing the fish to hand, with no weeds on the line---very impressive. 30lb line is more ideally suited for the larger size reels, fishing heavier lures and targeting bigger fish. My choice is the 50-65 lb line for fishing in heavy cover, for those brutes that like to hide in heavy cover. This line doesn’t bury into itself, like flat braids or other superbraid lines I’ve used. Since using the Cortland Masterbraid superline, my backlashes have become very rare. Sometimes going all morning, or all day, without a backlash. I attribute this to the line not having a coating. Some superbraid lines are coated---as the coating wears off, or in some cases builds up in some areas along the line---backlashes increase--- and become very frequent. The coating builds up along the line, causing unevenness, small nodules build up, therefore resulting in back-lashing. (Learned from some close observations I’ve made). Cortlands masterbraid superbraid line “floats”---making it ideal for the line watchers. Unlike the green colored lines, which are difficult for some line watcher to see on the waters surface. When I’m concerned if the fish are seeing the line, below the surface, I use a permanent marker pen, in black, brown or green---dying the lines surface, starting at the lure for 3-4”, then skip color every inch or two. (Haven't tried red yet)---(I keep a permanent marker pen in my fishing vest pocket, as well as several other handy tools). I was pleasantly surprised how well this camouflages the line in the water, against various backgrounds---weeds, wood, rock or the like---whether in clear, stained or dark waters. Camouflaging makes it harder for the fish to see---and I have the superbraid all the way down to the lure, vs a mono tippit. Works great for me. Hope this helps.

There are a few hooks on the market, that will suffice for wacky rigging. My #1 choice is an EWG or GLock EWG Gamakatsu hook. The hook point and tie point are in the same plane--- thus resulting in less hangups while fishing in weeds. The large round bend, acts as a keel, resulting in the hook riding upright. The EWG (oversize bend) provides more throat depth, which will result in increased hook-up percentages. Select a size (throat depth) that is 2X larger than the thickest part of the worm you are using. 4/0 for 5" Senko 3/0 for 4" Senko etc. Works for me.

I "pitch" frequently to objects, while fishing for smallies--- either in a boat, from shore or wading. My preferred setup for pitching or flipping to cover, is using a Shimano spinning reel with the "trigger" feature--- like featured on the Spirex series reels, And using a 6.5 - 7.5ft MH action rod. (Med action rods will also suffice, if they are of the higher quality and stiffer rods---unlike a rod than employees more glass fibers, which are softer and flex more). The trigger feature, on the reel, allows me to make more casts, in a given time period. The trigger is always in the 12 o'clock position (top dead center) for ready access to the trip lever. With the trigger in the 2 o’clock position, the line is right there, It allows me to keep my finger in the "ready to pitch" position, ready to grab the line with my trigger finger, and allowing me to make speedier casts. My left hand fingers I use to make contact or feel the line---so as to feel any slight or delicate pic-ups by the light biting fish---a must when fishing in tight cover---those fish don’t run down the bait, they just swim up to it, and suck it in---this is where the line laying on your left hand fingers really helps. It may take some, a little getting use to this method---but, its the way to go, to get more casts in, in a specific time period. Also, the read drag feature is really a nice bonus. The read drag feature allows for making drag adjustments from the rear, vs placing your hand around the front of the spool and adjusting the drag knob. The Spirex reel also features the "fighten drag" lever---which makes for quick drag adjustments, with just a slight movement of the lever----rotate “right to increase” tension or “left to decrease” tension---when one has to make a quick adjustment to either increase or decrease spool tension, as when your fighting a good size fish--- This is a “big plus” when a big fish takes control. With the drag set on the tighter side, and when a big fish does take over control, I lower the rod tip, decrease the line tension, with just a slight movement of the “fighting drag lever”, so as not to break-off. As the fish slows or decrease tension on the rod, the lever can then be increased, turning clockwise. The opposite can be accomplished. Set the drag slight looser---like when using superbraid lines---as a large fish takes control, the angler just needs to increase spool tension by increasing the drag slightly---with the knob at the rear vs having to reach around the front when making adjustments, as with front drag style reels. Alternate reel: A closed face spin reel, like the underspin style with a trigger---intended to be used on a spinning rod. This style reel is ideally suited for making short casts---no line outside the spool to get tangled---a great feature for low light and night-time fishing. A beginner or novice alike, oftentimes gets the line wrapped around the exposed rotating spool and bail, (very easy to occur), with inadequate line tension or when using light weight lures. The closed face under spin reels are a good choice for the beginner or novice alike, while mastering the pitching and flipping techniques. I teach my students this technique, and they have mastered the pitching and flipping presentations very well. A spincast reel that operates on top of the rod, will also suffice---but intended to be used on a casting rod. Either of these reels can be used for a variety of fish species---bass and panfish alike. Some have adapted to the long rods, and have become more successful anglers. Some closed faced spin cast reels on today’s market, have a quality drag system--- A must, to prevent or reduce line breakage. Some makes/models are by Daiwa, Zebco and Abu-Garcia. Hope this helps.