kend

He always does. I believe he enjoys it. I'm sure his wife, is a big supporter and contributor.

=========== >>>Loosing 1-2" from the tip of a rod would result in some measureable change in performance. <<< A minute measureable amount---the results would be "insignifant". >>using a finely calibrated scale you might detect the repaired rod is slightly stiffer and bends into a different arch. <<< rod action and rod length is of primary importance--- ---with 2" of the tip missing??? I don't agree. again---very insignificant measurement would be realized--- and not detectable by a human. The rod would have to be placed in a properly engineered test device/fixture, loaded and meaured with a digital readout device. I've repaired/replaced LOTS of rod tips, over the years. Again---2" off the rod tip, will result in no measureable amount, that any human could detect. Loosing 6" of rod tip, "may" have some measureable value--- BUT--- again, it all depends on the rods action and length. Some rods, will have not a significant measureable amount. Buch Perrys observations and comments were made, when glass rods were the typical construction. Today, graphite rods are the norm. Glass and graphite are different. The type of graphite and the rods construction, have different characteristics.

Most people think that.

The "Fox River Fishing Guide" booklet, available from the IDNR. Access acreas, and more, are illustrated.

It doesn't appear they "wet wade"

I took my 8 yr old grandson LMB fishing today, in a nearby pond. After a couple "show-N-tell" lessons on how-to give the Kut-Tail worms the "shaky-thingy-look", he was catching fish. It took him about 2 hours to catch 15 LMB, but he sure got the hang of it. Now all he wants to do is "shake-skake-shake" that worm. (No hard shakes, just side-to-side shaking of the rod tip, did the trick). A couple guys fishing nearby, came over to have a look-see. When they departed, they were heading to GAT's to get some Kut-Tail worms. A couple of roofers, working on a house nearby, had to come over to see what the kid was using to catch all those fish. It was HOT and WINDY! But, the fish were biting. The fish were in the riffle area---(riffles caused by the wind). Nil, in the calm water area. PS---the previous 3 mornings, the fish were in the calm water area--- go figure. NOTE---the conditions were different, which, I believe, had a lot to do with it. Whats next? Kut-Senkos----more to follow on that matter--- later

Reminds me a little of Monroe Harbor, several years ago, after a previous nights yuppies party on the anchored boats--- the following day, the pier was closed to shore anglers--- the Chgo Park District blamed the fishermen for depositing their trash in the water--- ya, right.

Losing a inch or 2 from the tip, won't affect the action or performance of a rod. Some rod makes/models, losing 4 inches will not be noticable.

I don't think I'll make any plans to "wet wade" that body of water.

Cortland Line Company offers a variety of Hi-Vis lines: Master Mono, (same material as their camo), Endurance (a super mono, akin to colymer), best mono line on todays market, MasterBraid (superbraid line) best superbraid on todays market. These are the "Hi-Vis Yellow" colored lines. Very visible on the water. The mono are quite transparent under water. With the superbraid, I add a 3-6ft lengthof clear tippet, when fishing clear waters, and using live bait, for the shy biters and finicky fish. Works for me.

I use to fish a lot, but with this present job, I only get out 4 or 5 days a week. Work should be for those who don't fish.

I use a "Figure 8" knot. Tie the knot with a short lead, make a small "figure 8", close to the lure/tie-point. Leave a short tag end---drag up snug. A serrated sizzer action tool will suffice to cut the line. Retying: cut-off close and retie.

Now I know why you were wearing that big grin -----while standing in the middle of the river. Up 'til now, I thought the carp, slowly moving along the water surface, were feeding on floating bugs--- hmmmm---- perhaps they were coming up for air.

Rich, Glad you like it. Cortland Endurance, is an excellent line. It's a "super mono", akin to copolymer line. Presently my favorite mono line. Glass like finish---invisible in water---as good as flourocarbon. Low memory. Low stretch. Very tough. Great abrasion resistance. I like the His-Vis version----easier to see, over the clear version. Great for float or drift fishing---you can see where the line enters the water, and can detect when a very subtle pick-up occurs. I use the Hi-Vis versions on my bait runner reels, when float/drift fishing. The Hi-Vis really excells, it contrasts with the darker background, such as wood and weeds. You can see the line most, so very little, like when a fish justs sucks the bait in, and doesn't swim off. This line has improved my catch ratio, under such conditions. I fish a lot of deadfalls and laydowns. Cortlands Endurance line performs great for me. Presently, I haven't found another line that is better. I'm not an expert--- I just try to fish a lot.

P-Line, CXX Extra Strong, I agree, is a very strong line, and it's highly abrasion resistant---better than many lines. I've used 6 lb and like it on spinning gear. 4lb test is great, on UL reels. The 2lb is favored by several ice fishing anglers.

McCoy is a coplymer line. I've used the 4 & 6 lb on spinning---seems okay--- 8 is okay, but on larger size spools, like the 4000 series size reels. McCoy is favored by many tourney bass anglers. They use the heavy lines on bait casting reels. McCoy is a more abrasion resistant line, but a little stiffer than an extra limp line.

Level wind reels revolve and the line comes off the spool in a straight line; whereas with spinning reels, the rotor rotates at 90 degrees to the line coming off the spool, which results in line curls. There are various types of P-Line on the market. You weren't specific as to which one was giving you trouble--- flourocarbon, flouro-clear, Xtra tuff, XXtra tuff, or XXXtra tuff. The lines all have different characteristics. I find most problems are operator/user issues with line problems. With the vast selection of lines on todays market, it's mind boggling as to which to select. OEMs ads/info are misleading and inaccurate. 10lb Pline, thicker than 8lb, will work satisfactorily on spinning reels, that have a larger dia spool--- such as 4000 series size Shimano spinning reels. SOME lines in 10lb line rating, will work okay on a 2000/2500 size reel. 6-8lb line, more suited on the 2000/2500 size reels. 4-6lb line more suited for the 750-1500 size reels. Many anglers have problems when they install too heavy of line or too hard of line on their spinning reels.

Thats an awesome combo set-up!

Some think wet wading is the way to go, and even encourage it, during warm water periods. ME? NO WAY!

Mike, There could be numberous reasons, for you not having success on the K3 with tubes. Tubes are a great lure choice. Properly rigged, and presented, they are very effective. Many times, they'll outfish a worm. I've fished tube baits a lot--- from the panfish size to the giant 6" size. Most tubes are intended to imitate crawfish. There are also some that are great baitfish imitators. The long thin styles, nose hooked, are great for drop-shotting. Nose hook a thin tube, using a "shiner" hook, with a bull-shot weight, 8-12" up the line. Great for draging the bottom and for a swimming action. There are a variety of tube baits on the market. Some are more effective over others. Some brands are better than others. Those made of a softer material are more effective. Appy a crawfish scent. Rigging---bottom fishing: The EWG G-Lock style hook is the best, and rigged with the "hook point skin hooked". Insert style weights---the weight is inserted inside the tube, with the hook point exposed. An "insert" weight, [Yamamoto Insert Weights are the best], they fit onto the hook shank, with the weight inside the tube. Smaller size tubes, in the 2-2.5" size are best during the early season. (My choice size for river smallies. Most crawfish are small in the rivers and streams.) As the summer progresses, and post spawn, the 3-3.5" size are effective. LMB---3-4" sizes are good choice. When targeting BIG LMB in some waters, I prefer the 5-6" tubes. I've caught some HUGE smallies and LMB on "Venoms FAT Tubes". Rig a "white" 2.5" tube, nose hooked, on a BitsyBug jig, is a great shad or baitfish imitator. Hope this helps.

John, Its an excellent rod! Top choice of may avid anglers. Great all around rod for river and lake fishing, and for a larger variety of lures and presentations--- worms, senkos, tubes, grubs, hulagrubs, spinnerbaits, topwater, crankbait and the like. It has plenty of back for muscling fish from heavy cover. The Xfast tip flexes more for increased casting distance and for those quick and powerful hooksets. The performance excells over most other rods, on todays market.

Recently the new buzz word, "shakey head", has surfaced. I've used a "shaking" method for several years. The "shaking" method, (jiggle your rod tip "side-to-side"), on the fall or when resting on the bottom, to impart the desired action on the worm. Another method---keep the line taught, tap on the backside of your hand, the hand that is holding the rod. The vibration is transmitted thru the rod and line, down to the worm, causing it to move in place, like a live critters slow movement. A more effective action can be imparted, when using superbraid lines vs mono. (Stiffer (med to MH) rods work better over light or limber action rods). The "head style" shown in the photo, meerly a flat spot on a ball head jig, will stand up, when you place it on a glass table top. (Try it on a uneven bottom, like in most lakes and streams---it falls over or to the side, and will snag up). You can make your own version, from a ball head jig. Place the jig in a vise, or suitable tool to keep it in place, and file a "flat" on the jig head, using a coarse file or rasp. There are a variety of "standup" head jigs on todays market, that will suffice. I prefer a "mushroom" or "button head" style jig, for the presentation method, described above. Bait Rigs "OddBall" jigs are great---a few avid anglers I know of, really like this jig head style. "V" shaped style standup head jigs work well to. The head is in a wedge shape, flat and flared on the bottom, with the point at the hooked eye. BaitRigs "Slo-Poke" is very effective, in moving waters, such as stream and rivers. Great for fishing in weeds and wood. A jig with the "tie point" at the "leading end", (such as a slider® head, or the like), is the most effective for a more horizontal presentations, such as wade or stream fishing. (Ball head jigs get hung up or snagged to easily. They get wedged in crevices, rocks, or the like). Ball-head jigs, or jigs with the tie point on top, are more suited for verticle presentations, such as fishing deeper waters and from a water craft. Hope this helps.

Perhaps a warrior lost one of his feathers.

You "wet wade"? Hope you only wet wade where it's "totally safe".