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Darn car windows!!!!!


Teedee
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So, has anyone else had this problem in the past. You get in your car, drive along for a while, roll down the windows and enjoy the fresh air. Get to your destination and start to roll up the windows and then here that awful sound "snap" :blink: . Look back and of course the tip gets cut of due to protrusion from the car to the outside. As the heading says, eventhough what I said was alittle bit more onscene, it has gotten the worst of me in the past.

 

Can anyone give me some feed back on how to fix this. Do they sell new tips at stores and if so, can I assume it is an easy fix. The pole that snapped is beat up, but it is one I do not want to let go. It is my go to pole in my eyes :D Thanks for help and suggestions.

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Did the same thing a few years back.

 

I have really bad news.

 

I'm not a rod builder but I'm pretty sure the only thing you can do is shorten where it broke and put a new tip on.

 

The real bad news is that it will never be the same.

 

It will be shorter with a different action and not be the "go to" rod of your dreams.

 

It's all psychological.

 

Sucks.

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Did the same thing a few years back.

 

I have really bad news.

 

I'm not a rod builder but I'm pretty sure the only thing you can do is shorten where it broke and put a new tip on.

 

The real bad news is that it will never be the same.

 

It will be shorter with a different action and not be the "go to" rod of your dreams.

 

It's all psychological.

 

Sucks.

 

Jim,

 

I hope this is a better answer. A professional can fix the break you described. Say you break a 3' section of your rod right in the middle. You are left with 2 pieces 1.5 feet long. Assuming it is a clean break, there are three fixes I can think of.

 

First, a section of a graphite rod 2-4" long could be used as a sleeve to attach the two parts together. The sleeve goes over the broken ends and is epoxied in place.

 

Second, a thinner section of rod could be used as an insert. The broken ends go over the insert in this case.

 

Either way there is a lot of hand work to match and fit the broken ends and to finish the splice so it blends in with the rest of the rod. The cost could be prohibitive unless you do it yourself.

 

Third, install a ferrule at the break if you do not mind having your 2 piece rod become a 3 piece rod. Inexpensive repair ferrules cost $2-3. This one is the easiest though it lacks the cosmetic look of the first two.

 

Of course all three of these are going to leave a flat section in the rod when it flexes. The rod will not be the same, but it will be better than loosing over a foot off of the tip.

 

Don't throw the rods away just yet.

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Thanks Mike.... both rods were one piece, were is the optimum word! I haven't thrown them away, yet. Haven't tossed the one a partner of mine broke last year, either! One of them that I broke this year was a replacement for that rod. :rolleyes:

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Thanks to all for the comments and possible suggestions. I may try my luck and get a replacement tip to see how it will work and handle. Talking about handles....it has that sure fire fixer on it (were the cork material has peeled off) grey duct tape. Now you can see why it is my favorite rod. It has been thru H*** and back. ;);)

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Thanks Mike.... both rods were one piece, were is the optimum word! I haven't thrown them away, yet. Haven't tossed the one a partner of mine broke last year, either! One of them that I broke this year was a replacement for that rod. :rolleyes:

 

Jim,

 

So it sounds like you could canabalize one to repair the other two. In the process you could install ferrules to make them into travel rods. What Brand or Brands are they?

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What? I think it would.

 

I will try diplomacy here.

 

Technically, you are right Paul. Loosing 1-2" from the tip of a rod would result in some measureable change in performance. For instance, using a finely calibrated scale you might detect the repaired rod is slightly stiffer and bends into a different arch.

 

Having fished with rods that were on their second tip guide fairly often, however, I can say that kend is practically right. It is not a difference that I noticed. Fish do not spook more quickly when they see a rod tip that has been repaired.

 

Even when you loose 6" or more from the tip, "you cup is half full." Look at it this way. You now have a rod with a different action-more medium instead of light. BTW, to cure backlash problems, Buck Perry recommended cutting 6" off the tip of your casting rod. Getting rid of the wippy tip that some rods have also gets rid of the excessive acceleration that causes birdsnests.

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I will try diplomacy here.

 

Technically, you are right Paul. Loosing 1-2" from the tip of a rod would result in some measureable change in performance. For instance, using a finely calibrated scale you might detect the repaired rod is slightly stiffer and bends into a different arch.

 

Having fished with rods that were on their second tip guide fairly often, however, I can say that kend is practically right. It is not a difference that I noticed. Fish do not spook more quickly when they see a rod tip that has been repaired.

 

Even when you loose 6" or more from the tip, "you cup is half full." Look at it this way. You now have a rod with a different action-more medium instead of light. BTW, to cure backlash problems, Buck Perry recommended cutting 6" off the tip of your casting rod. Getting rid of the wippy tip that some rods have also gets rid of the excessive acceleration that causes birdsnests.

 

LOL- You guys think about fishing poles too much. There's a joke in there someplace. Paul

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I will try diplomacy here.

 

Technically, you are right Paul. Loosing 1-2" from the tip of a rod would result in some measureable change in performance. For instance, using a finely calibrated scale you might detect the repaired rod is slightly stiffer and bends into a different arch.

 

Having fished with rods that were on their second tip guide fairly often, however, I can say that kend is practically right. It is not a difference that I noticed. Fish do not spook more quickly when they see a rod tip that has been repaired.

 

Even when you loose 6" or more from the tip, "you cup is half full." Look at it this way. You now have a rod with a different action-more medium instead of light. BTW, to cure backlash problems, Buck Perry recommended cutting 6" off the tip of your casting rod. Getting rid of the wippy tip that some rods have also gets rid of the excessive acceleration that causes birdsnests.

===========

 

>>>Loosing 1-2" from the tip of a rod would result in some measureable change in performance. <<<

A minute measureable amount---the results would be "insignifant".

 

>>using a finely calibrated scale you might detect the repaired rod is slightly stiffer and bends into a different arch. <<<

 

rod action and rod length is of primary importance---

---with 2" of the tip missing???

I don't agree.

again---very insignificant measurement would be realized---

and not detectable by a human.

 

The rod would have to be placed in a properly engineered test device/fixture, loaded and meaured with a digital readout device.

 

I've repaired/replaced LOTS of rod tips, over the years.

Again---2" off the rod tip, will result in no measureable amount, that any human could detect.

 

Loosing 6" of rod tip, "may" have some measureable value---

BUT--- again, it all depends on the rods action and length.

Some rods, will have not a significant measureable amount.

 

Buch Perrys observations and comments were made, when glass rods were the typical construction.

Today, graphite rods are the norm.

Glass and graphite are different.

 

The type of graphite and the rods construction, have different characteristics.

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My rods are already med-heavy and heavy.

Take 2" away, and I may as well be fishing with a tree trunk.

Checked one that has been snapped off (it used to be a very nice Falcon).

No question about it- a noticeable difference.

Maybe not so much on whippier rods.

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