Mike G

Over ten years ago InFisherman did an issue on non-lead fishing options anticipating a change in the laws. So I guess this is a problem that will not go away no matter how much we rattle our sabers and pound our shields with our spears. A realistic look at the issue would have to admit that in many cases lead is bad for us-very bad. Poisoning from lead based pigments in paint is a prime example. Here's an extreme view. Plumbing got its name from the Latin word for lead. Indeed the Roman standard for plumbing was lead pipes. Lead plumbing in the homes of the Roman wealthy is frequently cited as a cause for their eccentric behavior and sometimes given major credit for the fall of the empire. IMHO maybe they were crazy anyway, but lead did not help. Like it or not, the burden is on us as fishermen to prove that our use of lead is not harmful. That is where the following article comes in. The author makes a good point. Unlike the case of lead shot used in hunting, only a fraction of the lead products sold to fishermen wind up on the bank or bottom of the pond. But there's more. Read the whole article. http://flyanglersonline.com/features/bobboese/

Thanks to those who replies. I picked up a boat yesterday. I do not need a fishing boat and trailer. These are also called row boats. I got My ideal boat - a 14’ jon boat with 15 inch transom (short shaft) that can be powered with a 5-10 hp outboard. I will be using it on small lakes and rivers. Boats with pointed bows are also OK.

Wow! Our little P.O. in Davis is way ahead of the pack with delivery on the 9th. So far, no one has tied much less beat that. But the race is still on.

I got the January/February issue Monday, Feb 9, 2009. It is a keeper as always. There has been some discussion of when we are getting these. It would be nice to know how well USPS is doing. so here is my informal pole: Did you get yours yet? Please add in post: When (date)? Zip code, full or first three digits? PS My zip = 61019

Some float; some sink. The one that looks like a Senko is impregnated with salt; so it sinks. From the description the Finesse Worms are also salt impregnated and sink. I think the others all float though you would have to read the description to be sure. BTW from using the Strike King Zero (their Senko), I know you can cut it down to 3 or 4 inch versions that work like the shorter Senkos.

For a long time I have been a great fan of Strike King 3X soft plactic lures. They are tuff, tuff, tuff. They are the ones that stretch to over 10 times their length and recover without damage. Strike King still makes them, though they are harder and harder to find in stores. So I was happy to find Elaztech-another name for the same material. The pictures above are examples taken from 20 or so different models they make. I recently ordered a few and found them to be very good quality. So here is a solid source. Take a look. http://www.zmanfishing.com/categories/elaztech In the past I have had best luck with lizards, grubs, and stick worms, but the 4" creature shown first screams fish to me.

Dustin, You are getting buried with advice. As I see it. As a beginner here is what you need. Leader and tippet: Use a piece of mono in 6 to 10 pound test a little shorter than your rod. You can add tapered leaders once you feel the need. Flies: A couple of floaters like Jude's bug, a couple of wolly buggers for mid depth, a couple of clousers for deep. 2-3" length flies will be easy to cast and big enough to attract bass instead of panfish. Backing: For our kind of fishing, you need backing to fill the spool under the fly line so that your fly line comes to within 1/4 to 1/2" of the rim of the spool. If the line already comes that far, you don't need backing. This gives you a margin for error in case the line is not wound evenly. Personly I am leary of using a skinny braid like P-line since these superlines slice like a razor. Lots of stories out there. Braided dacron 20-30# designed to be used as backing are a lot easier on the hands and not as expensive.

Ryne, Fly head cement isn't very tough. That is why a lot of tyers use Sally Hanson's Tough as Nails clear nail polish on fly heads. For what you want I would go a little further. Sometimes I coat painted jig heads and spinnerbait heads with 2 part epoxy from the hardware store. Now that is tough though it is said to yellow over time. If that is a problem for you, Flex - Coat makes a 2 part epoxy for rod making that is formulated not to yellow. Get that from sources for rod building supplies. As Jonn points out well cured powder paint might even be tougher. But I think you want to retrofit some jigs you already have.

That is about the latest I have heard about anyone getting the last issue. Though it is not scientific, I think Craig got his issue in Georgia before I got mine out near Rockford (soon after Craig, however). Maybe we ought to do some careful poling of members to see if there is a pattern of late delivery or if it is randon all over the state and US in general. Temporarily set up a bulletin forum where members log in their reciept date and location so we can see the big picture. Of course only regular site users will be polled, but it is a start.

Great. I am glad to hear you are using the "centerweight." I have already modified a couple of floats from Wally's that way but wondered if I should bother. BTW "easily" might not be the word I would use. It seems to me that the "centerweight" gives two good bits of information that one cannot get from the "bottomweight" float. First the "bottomweight" always floats in a vertical plane. If the jig is laying on the bottom, it is still vertical. The "centerweight" lays over on its side (horizontal) if the jig is not hanging free in the water column. Second, of course, if a fish takes and moves up, the "centerweight" will lay over on its side-a good clue. The "bottomweight" would stay vertical-no clue. It seems like it is worth the trouble of modifying the float. I will do a few more to have ready for the soft water season.

It does not look like anyone is using the "center-weighted" float-designed by Mr. Coan, I think. At $2 a copy it is 4 times more than I usually pay for a float. I am interested in the float here. Is it worth the extra?

The original FnF rig favored a pear shaped float clipped on the line. The latest wrinkle is a "center weight" float clipped to a 3-way swivel. Jon and others, what are you using? Why?

Looks like you could ringers on this one.

20 miles northwest of Rockford, 4 miles south of the WI border.

Here's my 2 cents. Tie some of these. This is my take on the Stealth Bomber. I wanted hackle wings since they are one of the few things I do well. It is a 2 for 1 fly. It pops on a hard twitch; it dives on a gentler strip. The foam is very durable. Kent Edmonds provides good instructions here. http://www.flyfishga.com/stealth.htm PS Foam is a great alternative to spinning deer hair.

I have enjoyed using a Fishing Buddy 5200 for about 10 years now. I use it from a canoe though they have a bracket for ice fishing. It mounts with a C clamp. Check the models at Bass Pro. The new models are better and cheaper.

Don't it make you wonder why we need $300-$1000 combos to catch them.

Rich, I checked the Rainy's Flies website, but I can't find Craig's flies. Do you have a link?

Donnie, It is good to run into another tyer. You will find some excellent SMB patterns in the Bugger forums. In case you don't find it. Here is one of the best by ISA member Craig Riendeau. We don't leave home without one. For instructions try: http://www.dupageriversflytyers.org/DRIFT0...p?In_fly_nbr=57 Lately we have been tying it on 60 degree Eagle Claws (410 or 413). It is not one of those whispy trout flies as you can see. Even though you live in cheeseland, you might want to join the ISA. The newsletter always has flies and other great articles on Smallie fishing. Or join the WSA ( http://www.wisconsinsmallmouth.com/ ). PS Here is another version of how to make the Fodder. http://georgiariverfishing.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=6094

Mike, That is well worth the 10 minutes it takes to watch it. Think of all the times we fished without a preserver sitting on it or stowing it in the boat somewhere. We were lucky.

Thanks for some great replies. Each one gives some insight. Softex sounds like something I'll look into.

It was nice to read the issue in conjunction with Craig's comments. When I signed up with ISA, there were several old issues in the package that I was sent. They were great reading. I am all for reruns like this one. Along with the reruns it might be interesting to publish comments by the authors reflecting their current thoughts. Now there is the problem of the Hareless Fodder. It will never replace the original though it has its merits.

Perfect answer. There is no one right fly rod any more than there is one spinning rod that fits all. The 6 wt is a good compromise. As for where to get it, it would be great if you could borrow before you invest $. Best of all would be a friend who says,"You can have this one; I'll never use it." Good luck!

There are other flexible sealers also. What is the difference between these products? I am using Flexament. Am I missing anything by not stocking some of the other ones for specialized uses? Thanks in advance.

I hope all had a good time. I already tied some of these based on the article found on Fly Anglers on Line. But I have not gotten around to using them. Josh, what has been your experience on the water?