I can't stop!

[Ryan Kral]

Even know the season is over, at least for me, I had to tie up one more Musky/Pike fly. This one is articulated using the "Fish Mask" with "living eyes". Just fyi, this picture is decieving. This fly is 8.5" on the dot. Sorry for the crummy picture, the fly has a lot more life and color than the pic shows. I am now done tying these flies until spring, I have a huge bugger beast box full. One this I learned this year, is these flies can last a long time if taken care of. With such heavy fluoro tippet, you can really rip 'em out of a snag, and with as much time as you spend tying one of these, we would always paddle upstream to retrieve a fly that was stuck good! A comb helps too staighten a fly out after a toothy encounter too! Ryan

[Ryan Kral]

A couple more pics. Ryan

[Ryan Kral]

Sorry, just realized I didn't post this in member submissions. Feel free to move it! Thanks, ryan

[Tim A]

Ryan,

 

The fly looks awesome. And I share your irrational obsession with tying musky flies. My only concern with your pattern is that the hook is so hidden. It seems like exposed hook points and good gap are important features for musky flies, especially given the species' odd behavior of simply "mouthing" the fly until boatside.

 

What size/type hook are you using?

[Ryan Kral]

I agree fully Tim. I am using a 4/0 Mustad hook, but the articulated shank I bought was shorter than I like. I already ordered the next size up in length, and have some 5/0 Gama's on the way. That being said, if their was any kind of actual strike on this fly, the material would not stop it one bit. Its just some baitfish emulator. If I held the fly upside down, the material falls down around the hook, and the hook is exposed. In the pics, the material is kind of pressed around the hook, but theirs plenty of gap in the hook itself, I would just like a greater distance between the head and the hook. Thanks, Ryan

[Guest rich mc]

Ryan, don't stop tying as you can donate some of those bad boys to the Bronzeback Blowout Auction on March 1 .

[Ryan Kral]

You got it Rich. I would love to donate some flies, I'll plan on it. Ryan

[Mike G]

Well don't stop. That is a great fly. And they are not just for Muskies anymore.

Articulated shafts open up a whole world of stretch streamers and poppers. The premade skeletons are convenient. I found that they are easy to make out of stainless wire. I can make any size I want up to 30 feet. Everything you need is in the picture.

 

 

#12 wire is about the same diameter as a #2 Mustad 3366 shank. The tools here are ones that I already had.

[Ryan Kral]

Well don't stop. That is a great fly. And they are not just for Muskies anymore.

 

Articulated shafts open up a whole world of stretch streamers and poppers. The premade skeletons are convenient. I found that they are easy to make out of stainless wire. I can make any size I want up to 30 feet. Everything you need is in the picture.

 

 

#12 wire is about the same diameter as a #2 Mustad 3366 shank. The tools here are ones that I already had.

Thanks Mike. When we were on the water with our guide up north, I asked him if he was using the "Fish Skull" spines for his articulated patterns. He looked at me like he had never heard of them, and said the guides all make their own shanks. I meant to ask what he used, so this is good to know. Like all things fly fishing/tying, they are a rip off for what they are. Ryan

[Tom L]

I am using a 4/0 Mustad hook, but the articulated shank I bought was shorter than I like. I already ordered the next size up in length, and have some 5/0 Gama's on the way.

Nice tye and good collection of books, Ryan. Backcast by Lou Ureneck is a good read.

 

I'd learned my lesson, "don't skim on the hook". You'll be spending a lot times and energies in chasing that ONE fish. Gamies are nice upgrades.

[Tim A]

I agree fully Tim. I am using a 4/0 Mustad hook, but the articulated shank I bought was shorter than I like. I already ordered the next size up in length, and have some 5/0 Gama's on the way. That being said, if their was any kind of actual strike on this fly, the material would not stop it one bit. Its just some baitfish emulator. If I held the fly upside down, the material falls down around the hook, and the hook is exposed. In the pics, the material is kind of pressed around the hook, but theirs plenty of gap in the hook itself, I would just like a greater distance between the head and the hook. Thanks, Ryan

 

Sounds good, Ryan. I wasn't sure how stiff or dense the material was. If it falls away from the hook when held upside that is definitely far from a problem. I actually haven't messed around with tying articulated flies with the pre-made shanks yet--all my articulated patterns have been tandem hooks. I use 60# Surflon coated 1x7 steel to connect them. What are you using for connection materials?

 

 

 

Nice tye and good collection of books, Ryan. Backcast by Lou Ureneck is a good read.

 

I'd learned my lesson, "don't skim on the hook". You'll be spending a lot times and energies in chasing that ONE fish. Gamies are nice upgrades.

 

Tom, I certainly have learned this lesson and am moving this direction with my own hook choices. That said, I've found it's really about certain characteristics of the hook model more than brand. My recent muskie tying (and catching) has been primarily on Mustad and, believe it or not, Bass Pro hooks. Finding a large enough (gap) hook that is sharp and isn't super heavy gauge is tough. I used the Mustad black nickel jig hook 32768BLN 6/0 as the front hook on my jiggy things, and a Bass Pro 5/0 straight shank hook for the rear. The Mustad 32608 is also a popular one for musky or so it seems. These hooks take a sharpening well after a few hours on the water, too. While the TMC 600sp's are sometimes worth springing for, it doesn't seem you have to blow that much $ on a hook for musky, for instance. Plus they don't take to sharpening (they are ridiculously sharp right out of the box, but the wild cutting edge point is impossible to hone after it bites into a few rocks). Also, the short shank length on the TMC 600sp is not ideal for many muskie flies. That said, the 600sp is an awesome albie and striper hook. So I've found it's really about looking at each hook model and it's qualities and assessing their characteristics. For anyone who is wondering, here are some hook basics to think about:

 

-Sharpness out of box

-Ability to be resharpened (and is that necessary)

-Gap between hook point and shank ("purchase")

-Keel height (I call this "gape" but that could just be me)

-Shank length overall

-Wire gauge/tensile strength overall

-Tensile strength at point (unfortunately can only be assessed on the water)

-Shank shape (curved, straight)

-Inline vs offset/twisted

-Hook eye gauge (can I fit my tippet/bite tippet through)

-Rust resistance

-Color

-PRICE!

 

Maybe I missed a few. Let me know what other ones you think of. All of the above are variable--each of them is a spectrum. Where the perfect hook for a job lies is a product of a lot of factors, including target fish species, fish size, materials used on the fly, fly action, fly depth, orientation of hook (point up or point down), salt or freshwater, tippet size, presentation (long distance swing; short distance nymphing; can I strip strike? Will I be trout-setting?), etc.

 

I just thought I'd sketch that out while I had a moment. I know Tom and Ryan you guys know all that stuff already.

[Ryan Kral]

Tim, I haven't actually tied any tandem hook patterns yet, and have actually been looking at what material to use. Where do you get that steel wire for your connections? This fly is just the steel shank, attached to the hook eye. The only benefit this gives is articulation, and putting the hook closer to the middle of the body of the fly. Two hooks would definitely be even better, and I've been researching what guys are using to go from hook to hook, so good to know what your using. I too don't buy hooks just based on brand, but what I'm trying to accomplish. I do have some cheaper hooks that's aren't to sharp out of the box, but take a sharpening well, and I like their other characteristics. All good points you made. Ryan

[Mike G]

Ryan,

 

What to use for the loop that attaches an articulated section to a hook is a question with many good answers. So I will just give you mine. I distinguish between whether the loop will be "weight bearing" or not. By that I mean whether it will have to bear the weight of a fish or not. (Is there another hook somewhere down the chain?) For non-weight bearing connections, mono poses no risk of loosing a fish from breakage or bite off. If there is a second hook down the chain, I favor wire for the loop. But I use a much lighter gage #2 wire instead of the #12 I use for the shanks. #2 is .011" diameter and 27 lb test. For Muskie flies you could go to heavier #4 or 5. When I tie the loop on the hook, I leave long tag ends that I fold back and wrap down to eliminate any slippage. (Trim off excess.) This is easy for me since I already have the #2 wire for weed guards on my streamers and poppers.

 

AFW makes both the Stainless Wire and the Surflon coated wire. I found a good selection on Amazon. Places like Barlows and Netcraft also carry it.

[Ryan Kral]

Thanks mike. Any idea if cabelas or BPS carries the stuff?

[Ryan Kral]

Also, Tim and Mike, do you guys use beads like you see a lot of tyers use to cover the wire loop?

[Mike G]

Also, Tim and Mike, do you guys use beads like you see a lot of tyers use to cover the wire loop?

 

Not yet. I can see where beads might serve as spacers to keep the segments apart when you use a flexible material for the loop. So far I "Hard Wire" by bending a fixed eye into the wire I use.

 

It looks like BP and Cabellas carry some of the stuff. Amazon is a one stop source.

[Tim A]

Like Mike said, Amazon is a good place to find the Surflon at a decent price. I found a similar product at BPS by a company called Malin. They had both coated and uncoated...and I honestly can't think of too good a reason to avoid uncoated. So if you find that, I say you're fine to go with it. I use the 60# for musky flies, but 30# works well for bass sizes and you can go smaller for trout.

 

I do use beads over my wire most of the time, although its not necessary. It's actually a pain in the butt, but I like the bit of color and added anti-fouling protection beads provide. For the musky flies, get big plastic beads (6-8mm or bigger) with a big enough hole. Glass beads break and are heavy. They are fine on trout flies for additional weight but musky flies don't need any more weight, right!

 

So here's why beads are a pain in the butt: To ensure that the rear hook doesn't ride out of line with the forward hook, the wire loop must remain vertical. But when the legs of the loop pass through the bead, they like to cross one another. So just be really careful and don't tie it down until you've double checked it's right.

 

To keep the loop vertical, I take the length of wire (you'll probably need 7" or so to work with on musky flies), pass it through the rear hook eye, slide the bead(s) over the ends of the doubled wire, and make sure everything's aligned. Then begin tying down the wire onto the SIDE of the front hook shank near the bend, working your way up. As you get halfway or more up the front hook shank, pull the tag ends of the wire on top of the shank and continue wrapping. If you have enough wire, once you're near the eye, fold the wire tags under the hook shank (one on each side) and secure. Then go over the whole thing again with thread and make sure it's all covered. Then coat it in some kind of glue--liquid fusion, some super glue, head cement, CCG, whatever. Don't use your good thread for this; it'll blow through your thread. Use a color you regret buying or something you have a lot of. It won't ever show anyway.

[Tim A]

Forgot to mention, if you go to BPS or Cabelas, the wire should be near the musky lures and stuff, not with the filler spools of line. The beads are often with the trolling lures, lure tape, eyes, etc. And TyGer is far overpriced. You don't need fancy stuff for this task.

[Jonn Graham]

I discovered this hook while scouring the shelves of BPS. I love it!! I buy the 4/0 and the 5/0 models. I cut off the shrink wrap sleeve that holds the keeper. Big gap and smaller sized barb, which should help with hook penetration..........

 

http://www.gamakatsu.com/fishing-hooks.php?pid=1048

[Tim A]

That is an awesome hook, Jonn. I've looked at it several times in the store. It's just so darn expensive...if I could only get on the Gami pro staff

[Jonn Graham]

Yah, it is expensive, but I figure if I ever lost a muskie due to buying inferior hooks, I would never forgive myself.