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Wire bite tippet


Ryan Kral

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Hey guys. Any reason why something like this wouldnt work. These particular ones are only 6", and should turn the fly over fine because the rest of my short leader is Maxima Chameleon, which is pretty stiff stuff. I was planning on using 50lb Fluoro, which I know the couple fly companies up north both use fluoro bite guards from 50-80lb instead of wire. They will also admit they get the occasional bite off, but they claim more strikes using Fluoro. I dont get the chance to FF for musky often, and I would be pissed if after a long day of trying, I lose my only hook up to a bite off. Anyways, I know I will lose a little movement, and have the chance of kinking the wire(then I'll change it), but any other reason why I couldnt just do a loop knot to that swivel, and use that as my bite guard? I dont have time to get tyger wire or anything else, I would have to use what I have. Thanks, Ryan

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Ryan,

I have never fly fished solely for the "fish of a thousand casts" but I have spent a fair amount of time chucking big flies at Northern Pike. I did notice a significant increase in strikes when I used 40 and 50 lb fluoro tippets vs. those commercial wire "bite" tippets from Climax? and that wire was a lot thinner and less noticeable than what you have there. I never had a pike bite thru 50 lb test but then again, you might hang something much larger than any pike I ever landed. I did change out my fluoro tippet after a fish or if I could feel any major abrasion. Go with what you've got and if you have some heavy fluoro, take that as well and please get back with us as to how you did with each.

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Thanks Rob. From what I understand, those Pike, especially the smaller ones are the biggest culprits of bite offs, supposedly have more teeth, and spaced closer together. I think I will stick with my fluoro, but bring these with just in case. Ryan

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Ryan,

 

Guys use leaders like those all the time with bait casters and spinning rods. Rumor is that they catch Muskies. If it does not cause you a problem casting, use it. Who wants to loose a fish on a bite off? This assumes you can't get some Tyger wire before you go.

 

On the other hand I can see the argument for a "finesse" presentation using 40# FC if the fish are shy. (I never thought I would call 40# tippet "finesse" fishing.)

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Ryan,

 

I don't think they're a terrible idea, as an idea. In practice I have seen the snaps come open after long periods of casting or pulling on a snag. That's bad enough, but I'd hate to see one open up on a fish. There are some good snaps out there if changing flies in a hurry is your preference (check out Tactical Anglers clips online sometime--I realize you can't get them now). I don't know why you'd use a loop knot to attach fluoro to the swivel on these. A direct connection would be better--the snap will allow fly to move freely.

 

While I understand your logic in not wanting your one fish of the day to bite its way free, another way to look at it is that if you're going to wear yourself out casting all day, don't you want the most chances at fish possible? I'm more of the latter persuasion, and I plan on using 80# fluoro. I'll try not to let the line cross the fish's mouth as much as possible.

 

I fish for bluefish fairly often and yes they are often way easier to come by than musky, but they are notorious for biting off flies. Yet, I continue to use 25-30# even when I know they're the only fish around simply because wire turns them off so much, even at night. Only time I'd consider wire is in a full on blitz or when I'm soaking bait (which I never do anymore).

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Thanks Tim. The wire is not my first choice, I just don't have the chance to pick up some heavier fluoro, and the fly shop won't be open by the time were on the water Friday. By the way, were going up Thursday evening now, so we can have as much time as possible on the water Friday. Although the shop said the bite hasn't been turning on until around noon, with them have much more productive afternoons than mornings.

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Wire tippet for me too. I don't get a lot of chances to hook a muskie on the fly.............I want wire on the end of my line. I use tiger wire or a furled leader with a titinaium bite leader from this company in WI>

 

http://www.blueskyfly.com/bluesky%20fly_005.htm

 

The above leader is very nice.............the titanium tippet resists kinking very well.

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I think one of the reasons you can get away with the heavy steel leaders of old with Musky when fishing with casting/spinning gear is generally the guys are burning those lures back in pretty quickly. I'm doubting you can retrieve your fly nearly as fast unless you tuck each cast between your legs and use two hands to haul it in, hence they will get a longer time to look your rig over. Of course, I don't know this to be fact.

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Rob:

 

I would say you are correct about the gear guys getting away with much clunkier, bigger bite leaders. The neat part about tiger wire and the titanium bite tippets is the fact that they are quite thin and probably not noticeable by the toothy critters. With the propensity of muskie following baits/flies to the boat and really caring less about the boat itself, I doubt that a thin wire bite tippet would spook or turn fish off............... Of course, I am just starting out on the muskie thing, and no little about muskies and how they act. But I have friends that guide and tell me that a muskie is not really afraid of anything.......

 

Be very careful about muskie fly fishing...............if or when you catch one, your life will change significantly. Presently, I am obsessed. I have to catch one by Dec. 1st...............that is my self-imposed goal. If work and money were no object, I would spend the whole month of Oct and Nov in Wisconsin.

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Be very careful about muskie fly fishing...............if or when you catch one, your life will change significantly. Presently, I am obsessed.

 

John,

you do still have a second shoulder without ink, do you not? If so, may I recommend a fine Musky tailwalking with the adage, "Musky, everything else is just bait"

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