jim bielecki

I think areas that get fished heavily should be clearly posted. I know the Montgomery area on the Fox can use several...the parking areas should be targeted...maybe one on littering too!

Man Law #33: When a close relative fails to make up some hair jigs over the winter for summer time fishing, said relative is condemned to shaving their head for each month of neglect! Man Law #34 When the boat plug is forgotten, a digital picture of the infraction with the boat owner shall be posted on the internet to thwart off repeating offenders.

Hi Mike, I did the Kid's Derby at Silver Springs last year...I'll probaly do it again, and maybe the one at Herrick lake. It is a lot of work and it's too much for one person.

Hi Mike, the white sign was there but no yellow sign...so there are both...the yellow is above the white...there's some weeds surrounding the white one...I plan on going back to do some pruining. But both are there. I can pick some signs up this week...I'll pm you with my number. Jim

Hi everyone, I got out this weekend and cleaned up the fishing area below the dam and hung a new ISA sign. However, above the dam it was nasty! Scum and backed up debris was blocking the waterway. Also because this dam is in place, it is silt city! I truly hope this dam is taken out! (The larger one, not the small one up stream.) I'm sure the Kayak people look forward to it's removal as well! I will also need some new signs to post. How do I get more? or who do I talk to? I haven't had a lot of time to do conservation work but I plan to do a lot more this summer. Jim

Awsome Pic!!!

They do have the best chocolate cake! I would say I use the 6 lb test because I've never hooked into a trophy smallmouth. I fish the fox and the Dup...that's it...most fish are 14 inches or smaller....usually smaller. Walleyes...if you're lucky to get one it'll be less than legal. As for rocks...the fox has snags but as long as I bump the bottom I'm fine...if I get a snag...I pull my line...sling shot it and the current breaks it free. If I hook into a fish, I play it fairly quickly. The Fox doesn't really have a fast flow anyway. I've caught 15 lb carp at the fox, worry free. I've also done some research on fishing line...the line breaks at very high tests...line manufacturers are not regulated by any government agency...therefore, many of them will put line that tests 10, 12, or even 14 into a 6 or 8 lb test box. In addition, physics prooves the rod should do all the work anyway... In physics, there's a simple demonstration that shows the fishing rod should do all the work to prevent the line from snapping: At the end of a dowel rod, tie on the line that you're going to use. At the other end you tie on a weight, something equivalent to the estimated pull you think the line can handle. Stabilize one end of the dowel on a table, and hanging the longer end of the dowel over the edge of the table. Allow the weight to hang. You will notice that the line will probalby hold the weight. Now pick up the weight a few inches and drop it...if it holds...pick up the weight a few more inches and drop it again. You will find that the weight will eventually break the line. Now take the same set up, but use something that has "give" to it. Instead of a dowel, you can use a thin plastic rod the same length of the dowel. For our purposes you can even use the tip of the last fishing rod you had that broke...but it has to be the same length of the dowel. Conduct the demonstration again...you will find that because of the flex that the rod has you will be able to hold the weight higher and drop it without the line breaking. I too am serious when it comes to fishing which is why I change my line often. If I feel I was extra tough on my line on a particular day I will either peel off 40 yards of it or replace it. I would say I'm confident using 6lb line...but I'm not ignorant with what I expect from it. I know what I can and can't do with it. In cover with weeds and timber...No way would I go with 6 lb! I learn from everyone in the club so I appreciate all the feedback I receive... Thanks to all the replies I'm convinced of the gear that should be used on the Kank...I plan to fish there more this year so the info is extremely helpful. I'm planning on what I need now because once the season is in full swing I don't want to be messing with gear. Good luck everyone!!! and thanks again!

John, you should check out some of the Multiple velocaraptor nests I sometimes get! Gets pretty ugly...depends on my patience.

Jim, the superline you use...when you get hung up how difficult is it to get unsnagged... I've used spiderwire and it's impossible to break...most of the time I have to cut the line leaving the excess line in the water. Do you have the same problems???

Thanks for the advice... A long time ago I have used this rod for steelhead on the root river in wisconsin and it's a pretty tough rod for that... Bluegill...like you said don't stand a chance. Draw backs that I remember for this rod; it's difficult to cast and it doesn't cast very far. Guess I should investigate on some new gear... I've got a real...pretty simple...any suggestions on rods? (preferably under $50 bucks ???) Jim

Hi everyone... I have an old fiberglass St Croix flyrod. I'm not sure if it's worth anything. I'd like to use it for smallies if it's not. There's nothing wrong with it. I'm a novice to fly fishing by any standards so I'm not sure what all this means...on the rod it's printed: 900 8' Line C(L6F) GAG(DT8F) GAF WF8F Can I use this for smallies...none of the letters above start with "s" I can use the help of the experts on this one. Jim

I just want to say thanks for the info...it helped. I like to use a lot of small jigs, so I'll probably go with Jim J's suggestion...medium/light fast action rod that's a one piece 6' 6". I also like to throw light presentations...small jigs...small flat fish, floating rapala's, etc. I just picked up some really cool hair jigs! I can't wait to try 'em. I like to drift live bait also so this may be the ticket for me. I've always used Trilene 6lb xl...I've noticed many who responded to this post use lines much heavier...I'm just curious...why do you like the heavy line? Is there something better than what I'm using that's more sensitive? Also...Mark...is your 7 foot rod a one piece or two...I'm guessing it's a one piece Loomis because of the sensitivity. I've got an awsome 7 foot baitcasting rod but I can't throw small baits with it...perfect for spinner baits and large 6-9 inch rapalas, or anything 1/2 ounce or more...like a rattle trap. It can handle even some large buctails...it's aweful for anything small... What do you use for small light weight crankbaits...do you use the same rod or switch to a shorter medium/light baitcaster with a slower action?

Hi everyone, I am in need of new gear and I can use your advice. I'm looking for a reliable spinning outfit for smallies. But I don't want to spend a lot of money...I'm really hard on my poles and reels. I know I can be more careful but I've tried that and it's like magic...one minute the pole is in one piece and the next minute...two. I'd like something sensitive for jigging, but strong enough for crankbaits...or should I have two setups? Is a 6 foot 6in medium action too much? And how do I match the rod to the reel? It's been a while since I've bought anything so I don't know what's on the market...too much for me to go through. I wish there was a consumer reports on fishing gear. That would be awesome. I've also had problem with fishing line...is there any line out there that doesn't twist...I've come to a point in my fishing career that I'm not going to fight with this anymore...I know how to put line on a reel and that if the line twists you flip over the spool...well...that doesn't always work...I want a line that doesn't twist no matter what you do. Jim B

hi brian, I gotta add one more...I've used this one often and not many people use it....the Jansik knot: http://www.fish4fun.com/jansik.htm It's easy and very strong...I use it for crankbaits. It's awkward at first but once learned it's a great one to use lures.

Hi Tim, it's definately a stickleback. Thanks for the help. I'm not sure though which one it is...I'll have to take a closer look next time I get one. I know it wasn't a brook stickleback. It looked more like the 9 spined stickleback, but I'm not confident of how many spines it had.

I've been getting minnows from my local bait shop and have seen some weird looking fatheads... Next time you get some minnows take a look at the batch. I've found a brown, minnow looking fish, with spines on the back, I'm not sure what it is...I'm going to try and identify it, but has anyone else experienced the same thing?

I too am mostly interested in clean-ups. I think it's a great way for people to work together.

Hi Brian, I marked the animated website as a favorite...thanks for the info! I plan to practice and try out a few before spring gets here. I usually use the clinch knot or the improved clinch...I've gotten really good at it but every now and then I like to broaden my skills a little.

Brian, great resources! This site quotes that a knot has a breaking strength 50% of the origial strength... http://www.caves.org/section/vertical/nh/50/knotrope.html Here's a knot you may want to try... http://www.in-fisherman.com/magazine/guide...2003Sp_Uniknot/ Here's some other kinds.... http://www.dnr.state.md.us/fishinginmd/knots.pdf

I came across a good tip I need to follow more often. It has to do with tying on your lures prior to fishing. Anyone who preties their lures should be WARNED! Tieing your lure prior to fishing such as the day before, getting ready for a trip or pretying your rigs is risky business. You are weakening your line every time you tie a knot in your line...the breaking strength of a well tied knot is about 90% of the line weight. When you pretie...you are allowing the knot to dry, if you wet the knot, and become brittle. Pre-tying your lures may have a breaking strength of 70% or less of the original line weight. Best practice is to take your time, and tie your lure the day you are fishing. Make sure you wet the knot with saliva and pull firmly. I've seen my brother make both mistakes...he's confident he tied a good knot and is proud to show me he's pre-rigged and ready to go...but when I test his expertise by pulling on the line and lure he's dumbfounded when it easily breaks. Who know how long he has been ready for a trip...I'm sure the type of line also plays a role however, a good knot tied properly can never be underestimated. The knot IS the last connection between the one that got away or the big one you land. And I don't need to mention to retie often after fishing for a while and look for wear in the line above the hook eye of your lure. My next tip has to do with Night Crawlers...if you are like me and pick up the Spring rain worms, next time try soaking walnut shells in water. Then dump the water in the area where you collect your worms. I guess it's supposed to make more worms come to the surface for the easy pickins. Also be warned...many bait shops import worms from Europe. Quoting Outdoor Notebook, "Minnesota has no native earth worms, angle worms nor night crawlers. they also are not navtive to Michigan the UP and Northern Wisconsin Many of the worms found in Minnesota are actually imports from Asia or Europe. So...with this in mind, just like any other exotic, be sure to throw your unused worm in the garbage rather than on the ground. (ust like minnows it's proper practice to dump them on the shore. ) It turns out that the unwanted earthworm in parts of Minnesota are doing damage to the forest floor and changing the ecology. Once it's there, it's impossible to remove. check the website www.nrri.umn.edu/worms.

Hi Mike, I picked up a pack of 8 at Water Werks on 59, just south of butterfield road. I'm going to give them a try...

Hi everyone, I read an old Outdoors Notebook the other day and came across a technique new to me...maybe old to you. It talked about the problem of how plastic beads stick to the fishing line when you use a slip bobber rig and how glass beads prevent this problem. Anyone who has used it know that every so often the plastic bead will stick to the line and prevent the bait from sinking to the correct depth you want which is the slip knot. The article suggested using a glass bead because it slides right through the line with ease every time. Just wondering if anyone uses the technique...not for smallies...just in general...I use a slip bobber a lot on Lake Shabbona for Crappie and Catfish. The article was geared toward Walleye fishing. Jim B

I'm going to go with a fly rod this year. also one of the hellgramite plastics I picked up at the baitshop in batavia. My brother loves using poppers so I may try that as well. I wonder how a fly popper would do?

If you look at the first lure...it looks like it should do a great job if you dropped your keys in the water....oh wait...it's a floater...never mind...in that case it looks like it would do a nice job tearing up your buddies face on a back cast when he got too close.

After the breakfast club in Batavia I tried the stretch of the fox below the dam...no luck. But the breakfast club was a success and I was glad I went.