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Float n' Fly Floats?


Mike G
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The original FnF rig favored a pear shaped float clipped on the line. The latest wrinkle is a "center weight" float clipped to a 3-way swivel. Jon and others, what are you using? Why?

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Stick bobber with spring removed and silicone tube to hold line. It's cheap and it works. I also use slip floats rigged just like I was live bait fishing. The fish don't care.

 

I also don't believe you need fancy tied jigs either, small crappie tube or chenille/marabou ballhead crappie jigs work just as well. Again cheap and they work.

 

If it's cheap you won't mind losing it and are more willing to put it in the thick of the mess where the fish are.

 

You don't need a special rod either, how deep are you fishing around here anyway in our flows.

 

Edit, fire away fnf fans, I expect it.

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I like the drennan floats, they are clear w/ flo orange top for good viz. been hearing /reading lots of good stuff on maxima line for a leader. I use the clam shaped shot that squeezes on and has no "ears" like split shot, so it doesnt twist my line. blackbird micro swivels, tiny but very strong. my bait varies from flies that I've tied to spawn, grubs and sometimes crawlers and even some gulp plastics. all of this is drifted by way of my centerpin, the deadliest way to presentate a bait while drift fishing. I hope to get out with some of you guys so you can see how effective centerpinning can be.

 

Joe

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1"round pink weighted floats 1.03 for 3 at Walmart.

 

My hair jigs cost about .10$ to cast and tie nothing fancy about them. Something to do in the winter.

 

Been sitting idle for 21 days.

 

I think the reason not to use slip bobbers is so you can control the depth and action of the fly.

 

Agree with Norm, you don't need to buy a float and fly rod. Use what you normally use.

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Actually with a slip float depth control is fine with the use of a bobber stop. You can actually yo-yo the jig if you want with a slip float.

 

When fishing a smaller area or a known spot, Phil and I both think you can get better depth control with a drop shot rig. You can also hold it in place to tempt the less active fish.

 

You could always combo the two and fish a drop shot under a float/bobber.

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Bett's 1 inch round weighted floats. I get them from Cabelas. I think they come 12 to a pack. The ones at Wal Mart are the right size, but they do not last long. The little spring mechanism inside begins to "stick". Real pain in the butt. The Betts floats are better quality.

 

Not going to get into a battle about fixed floats vs. slip floats. In addition, all I can say about true fnf jigs vs. "crappie jigs" is that if you could see a properly tied fnf jig in the water along side a standard crappie jig, your opinions would probably lean toward the fnf jig.

 

I will just leave it at that. ;)

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without a doubt there is more than one way to skin a cat. the drennan floats I have use tygon tubing to control the depth, there is no stop of any kind. the tubing holds it very well and is very easy to adjust depth. you can get away with most kinds of terminal tackle and regular gear, but it is a real joy to fish with the equiptment that is designed for the job. I kinda look at it like you can fix a car with an old rusty set of tools, but wouldnt it be nicer to use a brand new set of the right snap on set of tools??? it is hard to justify spending alot of money if you dont have to though, its a double edged sword :blink: isnt it a shame we arent all independently wealthy :lol:

 

Joe

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Drop shotting would probably work really well. Sinker bumping a little sand would help if careful. Many times you want the float to drift- that's your movement. I guess I would miss seeing the bobber dunk! :D

 

Oh, I started throwing my fly jig on a tiny snap for quick change to a tube time to time. Fish don't mind.

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Norm:

 

Have you ever tried a properly tyed float n fly jig? If so, who tyed it? You don't know what the fish "truly" want if you have not tried both styles of jigs. I have no doubt that a crappie jig will catch smallies - So will a catfish worm slathered in cheese bait (yes, it does as I have witnessed it), but I don't see how anyone can think a crappie tube or crappie jig has even close to the same action, size, and overall life-like appearance as a fnf jig tyed with synthetic craft hair.

 

Let me know if you want to try some fnf jigs as I will send you some to do a comparison.

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I'm always willing to try what ever works, I just want to catch fish!!!! it reminds me one time at the creeks watching a local guy kill the steelhead with a kmart rod/reel and a ratty old yarn fly!!!! sometimes it works out that way........by the way I didnt catch a thing :lol: and I tied up some good lookin flies, so I thought.

 

Joe

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Norm makes the fine example that location, timing, experimenting with cadences work as much as the bait selected.

 

For my bit, I tend to think if they can see it, and I wiggle it right, they'll eat. That all comes with locating fish first and foremost.

 

 

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Yah, yah, yah.........I understand that location, speed, and cadence are all very important. My point is that under some conditions, sure, a crappy crappie jig suspended under a float will work, but a fnf jig is MUCH MORE lifelike in the water. When I use fnf, the water is cold and I am suspending the jig right in front of their face. I, myself, want my offering to look as lifelike as possible.

 

If bait appearance means nothing, then I should get rid of all my fnf jigs and buy a thousand crappie jigs!

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Jonn,

 

It's extremely satisfying to catch fish on a lure you created and it definitely adds to the experience.

 

I tried some of the original fnf jigs from Mr Nuckols I believe it was. They caught fish , the crappie jigs caught fish too. My point is that for most folks the more they invest in a bait the less likely they are to put it in harms way.

 

I think though most would agree that tubes do a fine job of representing something edible. Marabou has been around for a long time catching fish as well.

 

Use what you have the most confidence in and what makes you happy.

 

 

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It does not look like anyone is using the "center-weighted" float-designed by Mr. Coan, I think. At $2 a copy it is 4 times more than I usually pay for a float. I am interested in the float here. Is it worth the extra?

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Bob Coan is an awesome fnf fisherman. Basically the best at Dale Hollow. I have met him a number of times and his a true smallmouth catching machine. His center weighted float is a great idea for deep water. The float was designed to catch smallies who come up from below the fly, suck it and then sit with it. A standard weighted float would not make any movements if this type of bite occurs. Bob's float, when a fish takes the fly from below, will move from sitting sideways, to completely upright signifying a strike. In at least my rivers, which are shallow compared to the Hollow, I don't think this hardly every happens. Because of this, I stick with the regular weighted floats.

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You can easily make those floats by bending the wire to remove the weights from the Walmart jobs, remvoing the foam from the wire, then cutting the float in half and compressing/gluing the lead ring in the center. Reglue, reassemble, bend, tada. .37 cents.

 

Fish do come up on the baits, the float will move somewhat, the thing about Dale is they are often far away from the float the more motion the better to see.

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You can easily make those floats by bending the wire to remove the weights from the Walmart jobs, remvoing the foam from the wire, then cutting the float in half and compressing/gluing the lead ring in the center. Reglue, reassemble, bend, tada. .37 cents.

 

Fish do come up on the baits, the float will move somewhat, the thing about Dale is they are often far away from the float the more motion the better to see.

 

Great. I am glad to hear you are using the "centerweight." I have already modified a couple of floats from Wally's that way but wondered if I should bother. BTW "easily" might not be the word I would use.

 

It seems to me that the "centerweight" gives two good bits of information that one cannot get from the "bottomweight" float. First the "bottomweight" always floats in a vertical plane. If the jig is laying on the bottom, it is still vertical. The "centerweight" lays over on its side (horizontal) if the jig is not hanging free in the water column. Second, of course, if a fish takes and moves up, the "centerweight" will lay over on its side-a good clue. The "bottomweight" would stay vertical-no clue.

 

It seems like it is worth the trouble of modifying the float. I will do a few more to have ready for the soft water season.

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In a river situation, even with the bottom weighted float, you will know that the fly is on the bottom as it will not drift correctly. Usually if the fly is on the bottom, the float will slowly go under the water or will bob strangely. Or, when you go to jiggle the float, it will not look or feel "right". But the use of the center weighted floats will work as well. I like my float vertical at all times as it allows me to give just the right jiggle.

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