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UV Cure Glue Question


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For being good customers, Time sent us a flashlight. Since it looked like the small cure lights that sell for $10 or so, I bought a small tube of UV glue to try it out. Worse case, I could use good old Sol to do the job if the light failed. It didn't. The glue cured producing an ugly smell that I assume is typical. After curing I noticed a sticky residue on my test glue blobs that does not want to dry up. Coating it with Sally Hanson's seems to work. But what do you expert readers say. Aren't there UV Glues that won't have this problem?

 

BTW so far I am impressed. UV seems to beat mixing and waiting for Epoxy if one can deal with the smell which the vinegar smell of RTV seem like perfume.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I use CCG in a lot of my tying. I have been using it for several years now, since way before they brought out the "tack-free" series of products. I have used the flexible, thick, thin, brushable, and tack-free brushable. None of these have been completely tack free. In my discussions over this period with other CCG users and those who use Bug Bond, Tuffleye, and other light-cured acrylics (LCAs), there have only been 2 solutions: (a) coat with Hard as Nails, or ( b ) wipe with rubbing alcohol. The former will give a nice clear top coat, whereas the latter will result in some fogging.

 

 

It should also be noted that there are different wavelengths within the UV part of the light spectrum. Mike, I am surprised the light you received was even UV, let alone functioned within the range to cure the product (were you using CCG or another product? Which type of CCG?). What I'm saying is, the same light will not cure all brands of LCAs equally--it may take unreasonably long, for instance. If you can find out the specific wavelength of the light recommended by the company whose product you're using, you could find a cheap alternative on eBay with the same wavelength. I started out with the CCG basic kit (light+thick+thin), and haven't switched lights yet.

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Thanks for all information. Based on everything said, I found a light source that finished off the curing process. That's Old Sol coming through the patio door next to my tying desk. I still finish off with a coat of nail polish. FYI the stuff I am using is McNett Aquaseal Ultra-Violet Cure Adhesive.

 

BTW it has been a while since I had the problem of worm burn from soft plastics on my hardbaits. The cure I used then was to coat the gooey spot on the lure with two part epoxy. If that happens again I can try the UV stuff.

 

Thanks again.

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I use hydro for two different applications:

 

1. I use it in place of sally hansen's to cover thread head

 

2. I also use it when I have built a big head (like an expoxy head) using CCG Thick formula. When you apply the thick and then cure it, there is a tackiness to the goo. If you put a simple, one layer of hydro over top of the thick, it totally takes away the tack. Makes the head smooth and glassy in appearance.

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Yes, it is pricey. But, when it comes to the Hydro, you get quite a bit for the money. I am still on my first brushable bottle and I have been using it for many months. The Thick and Thin variety comes in a syringe and surprisingly the syringes last longer than I thought as well. I have built many musky fly heads without running out.

 

One thing though.................don't try to skimp and not buy their curing light. If you try other lights, it does not cure as well. Their light does the job perfectly. 3-8 seconds and it cured!!

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