Tim A

Glad to hear they took care of you. I like cabelas for the same reason

Thanks, Rich. Ron, interesting use of Sally's. I'm always learning of new uses for that stuff. I agree---a single layer usually dries in under 10-15 minutes. I only said to let it dry overnight because the smell tends to lessen over time. I also meant to mention that epoxy can be used instead of light-cured acrylic for filling eye gap.

Anyone who knows me also knows I try to spend some time fishing the salt each season, and my fly-tying style is heavily influenced by salty trends. In this post I am demonstrating how to tie one of my favorite flies for shallow water saltwater--especially around docks, mangroves, sod banks, and grass flats--but will also work in freshwater lakes and rivers for bass. This particular color pattern makes a great imitation of both certain inshore minnow species and shrimp, so it looks like food no matter how the fish see it. It is bound to be a smallmouth killer if you give it a shot on your favorite waters. Ingredients: Hook: Dai-Riki 930 Stainless, Mustad 3407 or the like, #4-1/0 (here #2) Thread: UTC 140 denier, brown Tail: Extra Select Craft Fur, tan / barred with Prismacolor marker dark brown Flash: Gold Krystal Flash Body: Ice Dub, rusty brown Eye: Pearl 3D stick-on, 3/8", attached with Goop & CCG Weedguard: 40# Berkley Big Game mono We're aiming for something like this: Step 1: Secure hook, thread the shank and splay a few bucktail fibers matching tail color (this will serve anti-fouling purpose) Step 2: Clip 1-2 tufts of craft fur, pull out short hairs, lash to hook above bend & bar with marker. Add a pair of strands of gold krystal flash (or your favorite) to each side. The tail should be about 1.5x the hook length. Step 3: Make a long (~8") dubbing loop and fill with ice dub. Leave an inch nearest you without any material, insert loop spinner tool, and pinch off with thumb/forefinger at the end of the dubbed part. Now give your spinner a good, fast free-spin. Release your pinched fingers and the spins will transfer up the loop and look like this: Step 4: Make sure thread on the bobbin is close to hook eye. Palmer the dubbing loop forward, stroking fibers back as you go, wrapping over itself if you need to for bulk/profile. Secure with bobbin thread. Step 5: In my process, I make the weedguard here. I use Enrico Puglisi's approach, which you can see on my post here: http://illinoissmall...t=0 Step 6: Take a toothpick and spread Goop on the back of eyes. Secure one eye on each side directly over area between dubbing and weedguard (may overlap either or both of these). Once the Goop sets, you can fill the remaining gap with an LCA such as CCG: Step 7: Finally, coat the eyes and acrylic filler with a clear nail polish such as Sally's HAN. Let dry overnight (just to be sure, and so that smell can go away a bit). While it dries, use a bodkin or dubbing comb to pull out some ice dub fibers all around the shank--focus on the area near the tail to help smooth this transition. Stroke the fibers back a few times with fingers. That's it! I hope you have as much fun tying and fishing this action-packed fly as I do. -Tim

Nice post--good food for thought. Only thing I'd say is that I would rather take the 3-4 combo in scenario D over 1–2, and those aren't the only options. I like 3-4 because if you factor in the current--which is a must--the lure isn't cast on top of fish and it swings at a slightly sideways angle but facing upstream when entering the strike zone (deep slough). This is a very natural presentation that doesn't spook the the fish, and can entice them to eat. To cover the potential length of the strike zone, I repeat this process as I walk downstream a few steps at a time. Casting from position 1-2 either brings the lure/fly up behind the fish or swims it directly into its face, neither of which seem to appeal to fish. Fish tend to spook or ignore such offerings in my experience. The other, unmarked options are quartering casts on either side of strikes one and either upstream or downstream. Quartering upstream can help a lure/fly get deeper before brought under tension, and quartering downstream can get the current under the line quickly for a suspended presentation (quick swing into/over strike zone).

Nice!

Nice tie, Tom! Looks like your first try really hit the nail on the head

I know this violates some copyright laws, but it is pretty useful and right on topic. See attached PDF for a 2-page color article on different weed guard styles from the latest issue of Fly Fishing in Salt Waters magazine.

It definitely looks like fish food. Thanks for the reminder to keep it simple.

I agree with Mike, in addition to my previous post, that I often go with a straight piece of heavier mono or flouro, or I build a tapered leader with roughly 50% (give or take) being thicker material (30-50# on 6wt and higher). So you could save a ton of money just doing them yourself. Plenty of formulas out there for building the ideal leader...I just prefer fewer knots for fewer liabilities. By the way, Mike, cool video on furled leaders. Thanks for posting that.

I tried using some off-brand knotless leaders from an eBay-only fly shop, but they were consistently lower quality and didn't test at the rated breaking strength. Maybe fine for smaller fish that don't test tackle. I'm back to buying Rio and SA leaders from the local fly shop. 3-pack of "Powerflex" saves a couple bucks off the single packs.

I have used a few full-sink lines and a variety of sink tips. I'm by no means the expert but I have had success. Obviously it not only depends on water depth but how deep the fish are holding--on the bottom or suspended halfway down, for example. To get down as fast as possible, be sure to use a denser sink line (t-14/Type VIII is the fastest widely available at around 7-8ips, but there is also t-18 out there if you look). I would make or buy a 15-30' section that you can loop on to your floating or intermediate running line (eliminating need for extra spool). If you are really fishing that deep, I would stay away from the lighter stuff (t-8 or lower). To get down fast: -Use fast-sinking line or long tip (Type VIII, t-11, t-14) -Use a very short leader. Very short. -Flouro for leader material -Use fast-sinking flies -Use sparser flies -Give (feed) the fly line a lot of slack while it sinks initially All that being said, I use an intermediate line a lot especially in clear water. This way the fly is sinking slowly but the fish can see it a long way off. I have caught fish in 15+ f.o.w. this way. Of course, in the extreme of that range I was letting the line sink for a long time, in which case I may have been much better off with a fast sinking tip. Using a sink tip on a intermediate running line can help with presentation and hooksets (over the alternative of a floating running line) as there will a straighter connection between running line and tip (think about what it will look like where the lines meet while fishing deep). Running line preferences can also vary based on the platform you are fishing from--floating line if standing on rocks, full sink line best from a snagless boat deck. Just some initial thoughts. I know there are some guys on here who hit smallies deep on the big Lake with goby patterns. I'm curious what they have to say.

"37. Whatever"

It "works" the same way a spinning rod can throw different size jigs and a little kid can toss a brick--a range of weights can be used but some are more optimal at certain distances (and some other circumstantial variables; e.g. in jig fishing, depth or wind; mending, wind, etc in flyfishing). The rating on the rod is a recommendation of the best weight of line to load the rod. The line weights, while comments above suggest are not standardized, are built around a set of semi-standard "ranges" of weights for the first 30' of line minus the level tip portion. So, just like an ultralight panfish spinning rod can toss a 3/8oz jig, just not very far, while a muskie rod can throw a quarter ounce a few feet, but you might not feel it, any fly rod can handle a range of line weights. Overlining= good for loading rod in-close, short casts, or using slightly bigger flies Underlining = good for carrying lots of line (taper-dependent though) for longer casts (Left Kreh often touts this point) "Same"-lining (using recommended #) = best all-around line weight for diverse conditions and mid- to long distance casts So you have to think about where and how you usually fish on the fly. If you never cast more than 40-50', you will probably be very happy uplining by one size (or using the "1/2" size up lines as mentioned in other posts). But rod action matters a bit, as whippy/noodle-like/medium action fly rods might feel out of control with even a one size increase, whereas the same line would feel perfect on a stiffer, faster stick. For fun, rig up a few different spinning rods with your fly line and hold them at the top of the grip where it meets the blank. Make some casts on the lawn or water, and you'll be breaking these cognitive barriers to understanding how rod-loading works. All of these things are still governed by laws of physics, not by the marketing policies of gear manufacturers. NOTE: I don't recommend actually fishing fly lines on spinning rods, just an afternoon experiment. My 5'6" UL spinning rod slings a #6 fly line nicely So rig it up and go fish!

Tom, You definitely need some vertical posts inside the basket to help deter tangles in the running line. Mesh models always look appealing because of transportability, but the poor performance is likely not worth it. Holes in the basket are also not good if you are wading deep. If you want to give a mesh one a try, I have a William Joseph collapsable you can take off my hands. I used it on one trip to the gulf, but it's like new and I don't plan to use it any more. My first basket and the one I still use is a plastic dishtub from Wal-Mart ($2) with a wading belt threaded through it and 6" zip ties inside. Commercially, the one most favored by salties is the Orvis molded plastic model. It's a tad pricey, but they have coupons a few times a year that bring the price down. It is definitely the one I would go with if I upgrade. The curved plastic hugs the body nicely, the depth is perfect, and the molded cones are one of the best setups. http://www.amazon.com/William-Joseph-Retractable-Stripping-Basket/dp/B000GIJ2TQ http://www.orvis.com/store/product.aspx?pf_id=1433

Nice ties. I've never messed with wire. Here is how I do mine (courtesy of Enrico Puglisi himself), using 40# clear mono

I use Congo Hair all the time for fresh and saltwater baitfish, shrimp, crab and crayfish patterns. I agree with the second part of the above statement, but also dont have that many tangle issues. First I tie most of my EP-style patterns such that they are trimmed to shape (the second method discussed above)--less flowing material means a fly that tangles less but has a little less motion (tying them sparse and fishing them in current still produces tons of seductive action). I also tie the heads in a v-style or kinky style that largely prevents tail fouling while providing profile/pushing water. If my fly gets tangled, I hold it underwater facing up current and stroke the fibers back.

Awesome job. Good looking fly

Should be a good time for stripers and/or herring up in the Hudson, Delaware R, or CT tribs. Try perusing an East Coast forum and asking folks there since its their backyard

I'd enjoy meeting you guys but I'll be out of town this weekend. I'll catch you on the next one hopefully.

line control/communication, braided line, and avoid casting upstream beyond the extent you think necessary to get your jig/rig to the bottom before it lines up with you

Thanks for posting that. That is a helpful and useful chart. One also has to consider the hook weight and materials of the fly being used. Some materials, such as many natural fibers, hold water, while many synthetics (like EP and SF) don't absorb water and shed water quickly from between fibers. A weighted fly tied with synthetics may be cast more easily on lighter line than the same size fly with marabou and hare dubbing, for example. The grain weights for each line are recommendations for the first 30' not counting a level tip, but of course lines all vary (and AFTMA standards are in ranges anyway), and head lengths vary. So is it just the weight of the head that helps carry the weighty fly? If "grain weight is used to move weight forward" and the latter "weight' refers to a fly, then it should always be easier to cast a fly at longer distances than shorter ones (casting faults notwithstanding)--given that as the length of line outside the tip increases, so does the effective gain weight. Fly line taper matters, for purposes of turnover at different distances, and at any distance the leader taper affects turnover. Heavy flies need stiffer tippet. But the discussion as Bob puts it seems like one in which we're only casting 30' + tip. Some say rod action matters, and that a more moderate action eases casting heavy flies. What do you guys think? I think such rods might make opening the loop easier (which is helpful to not get flies catching the line or crushing the rod blank), but that a particular cast/loop shape should dictate, and this can be accomplished with rods of both moderate and fast action. Just some food for thought...

What length and action are you looking for? I have a 10' TFO I'd be willing to part with This is a Jim Teeny 5-piece, just fyi

I've used that technique to fish (otherwise-)shallow running lures like the rapalas you mention but also spoons, mostly from the tall fishing walls/piers below dams on big rivers like the OH. There's no other way to fish those lures from structure like that. But it can be used to get distance and cover water if you're shorebound on lakes, too.

Thanks for the replies, guys. Looks like this is a good place to be. All the events sound great, and I had no idea in my first 1.5 years living here that there was so much going on nearby. I'll try to make whatever events I can get to based on schedule, distance, and car access. See you all around the forums and hopefully in person.

Hi everyone, I want to greet everyone as a new registrant to the site. I have been registered for a few days, but haven't posted until now. I've been perusing the site and I think it is a very helpful and friendly atmosphere. I am not yet an ISA member, but am highly considering it. I attended the fly tying show out in Bensenville last weekend and--though it was humble in size--I enjoyed the few hours I spent there and met some good folks. A fly tier named Cory G. entertained me with his deer hair stacking skills for good chunk of time, and I learned a number of tips from him. He even gave me a finished bass bug popper, which looks like a real fish-catcher. No doubt it will be in my box come Spring. I may be attending the Outdoorsmen show this weekend but not sure yet. About myself, I've lived in Chicago for going on 2 years now, and have fished a few inland rivers (DP, Fox, IL) but mostly fish the big lake since I am located in the city itself. For the same reason, I also have limited access to a car so my explorations of new fishing spots has been slower than I'd like. I used to live in Ohio, where I was more "in the know" and had a hundred spots to pick from depending on the weather and season. I hope I can attend some get-togethers with ISA folks in 2012 to broaden my knowledge of IL waters. I fish with both fly gear and spin gear, but I am increasingly obsessed with the fly. I pick up the spinning rods less and less. I tie a ton of flies for fresh- and saltwater as I go on a few budget trips to the coast each season. And I'm glad this forum and ISA are centered around smallmouth, because they are one of my favorite freshwater species. But I'm not above carp or drum or gar, especially on a fly rod. So if you're going out to target some "trash" and need to split some gas money, let me know. I also used to kayak fish a lot in OH, but I have nowhere to store my MantaRay12 here. If you need a second kayak angler and have a spare yak, I'm game. I'll stop blabbing for now, but I want to say thanks for allowing me into your network and for the helpful information I've gathered from the site so far. I hope to participate readily and meet some fellow anglers. -Tim A. Chicago