Greg C

Don't listen to Craig. One of his personalities is also called Jude. You see how he's arguing with himself?

Do a Google for Rainy's Flies. They have some nice bass flies there. A few of our members sell flies for smallies, myself included. Other companies that sell flies & related items are... "The Fly Shop" and "Feather Craft" come to mind, but you can also visit a fly shop. There are a few in the Chicago area, and there is a fair amount of fly fishing related gear at Gander Mountain, if you don't live near Chicago.

Sparkleminnnows...definately.

The HOPPER dropper rig for trout is used, because the dropper is usually so small as to not pull down the hopper. A fly small enough to not pull down the hopper probably won't entice a smallie of any size. There IS, however, a POPPER dropper rig that can be used successfully. I have a Zara spook special, that has a belly treble, but the line is designed to feed through the body to allow a dropper at the rear. I only bought it, because I had not seen one before...or since. It might be a collectors item. Anyway, the other problem is that a dropper combo can be a bear to cast. I usually stay away from them, unless the fish are being moody and it is the only way to get a bite.

Here's one that might keep you busy. It's sure keeping ME busy! Coffey Grinder

Alright!! Now, for those of you who like to tie, on the cheap, here you go. Wals-Mart(et al) has Christmas tinsel, in gold, silver holographic silver, holographic gold, pearl, etc, etc, etc.... AND, the point, it's MUCH cheaper than at a fly shop. If you feel like tinkering this winter, and you don't want to blow a lot of cash, right now is the time.

The Albright fly fishing gear is so cheap, you just can't pass it up. Their GP series of rods, and Bugati reels, are a great way to start without breaking the bank. For $75 shipped, you can have a rod & reel. Some Rio Streamline (available elsewhere) for $30, and you are on the water!! Most other setups will cost you that much for just the rod...and, THAT'S cheap!! Thanks, again Jonn, for the heads up on that site. I bought 3 combos!! One for my nephew, one for my brother, and one for ME! I'll have to say, I test cast the GP 6/7 I got for my nephew, and was VERY impressed. For the money spent, I was stunned. Nothing to be scared about. I would recommend an Albright GP 6/7, 9ft-2 pc rod . You can expand from there, but it will give you a good start. Best rod you'll find for $37!! Heck, best you'll find for $200!

Everything is proceeding as I have forseen... You don't know the power of the dark side!!

WD-40 is a petroleum distillate, and BAD for flyline. DO NOT use it.

I fished with Jay a few times. Great guy. You will learn a lot from him.Ask him about the dumpster chickens!!

Lotions are fine for DRY hands. But, cracked hands...hands that nearly bleed...you need Zim's. I've had that same problem, and that's that only thing that would fix them.

The Devcon 5 min epoxy is what I use, and it does yellow. However, you will have to wait a year for them to do it. 2-3 years, and the yellowing is really pronounced. So, it might be fine to tie just what you need for the season. You won't notice any yellowing for that season. But, it will show up if you carry some of them over to the next season.

HOLY whale smolts Batman!! That middle pic looks like a 7/0!! Here I thought you were making them at 1/0 & 2/0 sizes.

Zim's Crack Creme has been the best for me. Infinately better than anything else I've ever tried. It is like an oil, rather than a lotion. Zim's makes both but you want the liquid. Use it every day for a week, and you'll see a difference like you can't believe. It allows your skin to heal. The other stuff just seems to make things worse, for me.

Which fly show was he at, Rich? I haven't been to a fly show in 8 years. I used to go every year, before that.

I'm goin got have to look for the pearl glitter coated white foam next trip to Wal-Mart! BTW, I'll also give you a few of the Crease Fly hooks at the January meeting. You will ba able to make them in a larger size (longer body). I also wanted to mention that the 5 min epoxy is prone to yellowing. Let me know if the tying instructions mention Softex, to coat the body. I can't remember, now. It sounds right, though. And, it doesn't yellow.

Craig, I can get them at cost. What color & how many would you like?

Sculpin Heads I thought I might post these to give people some tying ideas.

Renzetti!!

John l's reply is fairly accurate. However, I fish with a Sage RPL+ 6wt. This has been my staple smallmouth rod for years. I have also used a Sage XP 5wt. Now, while there are times, in the summer heat where a med-fast action can allow for a more relaxed casting stroke, I find that I'm trying to beat the wind more days, than not. May-June can be really windy!! The fast action rod is really a wind/distance rod. I have done a good bit of bridge hopping to get a feel for where the fish were without a lot of wading. A med/ med-fast rod would not allow this kind of casting. Nor do they set the hook well in these situations. I realize, not everyone does this, but I do. I also might have to reach a spot that I cannot wade to. It's paid off more times, than not. I seem to need to distance cast a lot. It's not a "hang-up", or "problem". It's that many times you just can't get to where the fish are. At least, not without a great deal of foot work...and I have a steel plate in my leg. I can't get around like others might be able to. Nor, do I care to waste time hiking 1000yds to make one cast. The fast action excells here. Now, all that said, in the heat of the summer, the med/fast action rod is more comfortable to cast. Kinda like a relaxed pace when walking, versus a moderatly fast jog. In 95 deg heat, it makes a difference. Also, there usually isn't much wind to conquer in July.

No, nothing special. Just apply it 8-12" in front of the fly and you should be fine.

Well, I'll try to answer your questions, but I've debated this subject before....It didn't end well! So...I'll try to be more precice, this time. In-line spinners twist the line on your spinning rod, do they not? Now, that is 20-60 ft of mono that is being twisted. That can cause problems, obviously. But, just imagine the same amount of twist on only 4-6ft of mono!! (The butt section is too heavy to twist, as is the flyline itself.) Usually we add swivels to alleviate this problem. You could put a swivel on your leader, but this adds even more weight to the terminal end. Flyfishing is really not very forgiving of heavy flies. I, personally consider 1/4 oz the MAX upper end of a castable fly for a 6wt rod. Maybe you could get away with 3/8oz on an 8wt rod. So, the weight can be an issue, but the line twist from spinners can cause a problem of a different kind. Now, here's were I got into it with somone regarding this subject. The spinner, on a fly can work...if you take into account the twisting that you WILL encounter. I'll highlight the problems, and possible solutions.... 1. Blade baits can be either in line, or tied under the head (roadrunner style). The in-line spinners usually twist, so I never use them. You can use a swivel, but it's just adding more weight and apparent length to the "fly". AND, if you can tolerate the spinner blade twisting your tippet into a mess every three casts...then go for it. 2. The roadrunner style blade can work with little twist, but the blade is so small as to be insignificant. I would only say that it comes down to personal choice as to use one with or without a blade under the head. If you think they make a difference, then use them. I, personally, don't. 3. The prop-style spinner is another style. It is typically tied in the Pistol Pete fly style. Another mega line-twister. Again, no way to stop it from twisting the crap out of your tippet when stripped fast enough to spin the blade, or in fast current. 4. Now, that is NOT to say that they cannot work. It is just very tough! You first have to control the blades, so that they don't twist the line. A spinnerbait design solves this problem. Well, sort of... A spinnerbait is too heavy for a flyrod, and you need the counter-balance effect of the lead head to keep the blade/blades from twisting. The Thunder Creek style fly can work, IF you can counter balance the back of the hook BEND with some lead wire. And, you will need to tie it with a good sampo swivel on the blade. I have been working on spinner type flies for a while, and had limited success. You CAN use them, but they are tough to add to a pattern, and still keep it light enough to be practical on the flyrod. I do not want to give anything away on the patterns that I am working on, until they have been tested thoroughly. But, I do have one that some of you are familiar with. It's a topwater, called the Coffey Grinder. The hook hanging down on the underside provides a keel to keep it from twisting. Also, because the body has more mass than the blade, twisting is limited when casting....though, there will still be a little twist noticed thoughout the day. Lastly, use the heaviest tippet you feel comfortable casting. Lighter tippets twist more easily. Now, for my disclaimer!! I will not say that spinners cannot, or should not be used on a flyrod. Nor, am I saying that I don't use them, or that no one should use them. What I AM saying is that most of the current "spinner/fly" designs today are really bad line twisters. Also, I notice that most guys asking about spinner flies are looking for something to MATCH their buzzbaits, and spinnerbaits, because that's what they like to use for their day to day fishing for bass. AND, they know them to work on bass. Occasionally, they might want to match a Mepps in-line spinner. Both of these attempts are futile. You cannot effectively cast a wooley bugger, on spinning gear without adding addional weight, and in doing so you are effectively making it a jig. By the same token, you cannot effectively cast a spinnerbait with a flyrod. There is too much weight for that, and if you can manage to reduce the weight to cast it...it will twist and/or stay within inches of the surface. It's the old addage..."Use the right tool for the job". Craig Riendeau, and I discussed this topic many times, and our concensus was that if you HAVE to have a spinner...or your fishing day will be a total loss...just use a spinning rod. As for your reel clicking, it can depend on the reel model. Some click going out, but not coming in. Some click in both directions, and some do not click at all. If it's working as you need it to, I wouldn't worry about it. Getting your fly down into deep holes can be accomplished by using either sink tip fly lines, or full sink lines, depending on the depth. If the hole is 5 ft deep, or less, split shot on the leader should work.

I have that Rio Mainstream line on my 3wt. Very nice line. Gee...uuhhh...Jim sure is taking Jonn's conversion pretty hard...

And...so...you got....what? C'mon, you can tell us. A Tibor for $50?

First, there are those that will tell you that you don't need a drag. My answer is an uequivical....WHATEVER!! If you can afford it, get it. It CAN'T hurt. Even if you don't need it all of the time, you MIGHT need it sometime!! And, that's when you will appreciate it. How many guys fishing for smallies will hook into the occasional pike, or stiper? You will certainly appreciate it then!! That said... A G Loomis Venture fly reel is $99, new. If anyone is letting go of one, they are a decent reel with a smooth drag. Sorry, I don't have one for sale myself. Phlueger Trion & President reels go for $125-$170, and are good reels for the money too. Then there is the Sciera XDP. I don't know a lot about this one, as it is realatively new. But, the spec look good, and it runs $139-$149. Mostly, though....I would recommend the Cabela's SLA fly reels. VERY nice. VERY light. Voted by F & S 2006 Best of the Best!! Priced right, too at $90-$120 ON SALE NOW!! They are ordinarily $165-$195. Cabela's SLA reel CRAP!!!...now I've got to buy one...Thanks Jonn!!!