Tim A

Yes Tim. They're Gam SC15, 1/0 & 2. Just used whatever I had at hand. I used the Power Pro to form a dubbing loop and furled it to form the tail.

Nice fly. I think the back two hooks would be better off being lighter and cheaper hooks. Are those all Gama SC15 or the Mustad C47? Maybe put size 4 or 6 B10S? This could give you a better action in addition to lowering the cost and increasing hooksetting ability on light takes.

I usually articulate smallmouth flies with a single strand of 30# Surflon coated 1x7 wire. I pass it through the rear hook and slide a bead or two over both strands then wrap it along the near side of the forward hook's shank, moving the wire to the top of the shank as I wrap forward and then folding it back at the very front to prevent slippage. I haven't had any issues. But that might create a slightly stiffer action than the power pro.

Beautiful. Glad you were there to capture some semblance of it; they can't ever be captured in full!

I saw that too. Congrats, Rich! Great, innovative fly.

Tim,

I started using a really really tiny swivel to attach my tippet to, which I swore I never would, which helped to some degree. Also, I've not as much twisting with these poly pro wings vs. the cellophane like wings that I cut out in the past. One problem is that on the ponds anyway, the bluegill won't leave the thing alone and will pull it under at times by the tail.

Nice. Glad you've tinkered with it. Maybe post up the tail on the next few to avoid this?

Nice fly. You could add powder floatant after each fish or two. Not only does it keep it on the surface, it makes the fly hydrophobic, which is more realistic since adult insects' bodies repel water. You should get more aggressive takes in the first few casts after applying floatant.

(these are mayflies, but you can see the dimpled water)

The style of wing on damselfly patterns you use here has caused me issues in the past because of wind resistance. It is like a propeller in the air, twisting my tippet beyond repair and not easily turning over. If I don't have another fly option, I step up the tippet to a higher diameter.

I like all the mice in the first link and the green, yellow, and white tandems in the middle of the second. Nice work.

Saw yesterday that DNAinfo.com wrote an article about flyfishing opportunities in downtown Chicago and the Chicagland area, spotlighting our good friend Dave Kuntzelman (of Chi-Tie, Urban Assault Flyfishing). Thought you all might enjoy...

https://www.dnainfo.com/chicago/20160222/lakeview/chicago-is-fly-fishing-mecca-even-on-nasty-a---bubbly-creek

It's always worth bidding on a Kankakee trip with Austin or Will...as well as just booking them at their rate!

PM sent. Thanks, Ben.

Nice flies, Tom! I love the bendback--classic and underappreciated!

New in box 10wt Scientific Anglers Titan Taper fly line in 10wt. Textured line with coldwater core makes for easier casting with big musky and pike flies.

$40. Will ship.

Add $2 for Paypal.

The sparrow is awesome. Good pattern for picky carp in lakes and streams, too.

The "chubby chernobyl" is a fantastic and simple pattern that has produced fish for me on top. It's not a realistic grasshopper, but the fish respond well to it. It is really a pattern meant to smack down and be left there, so I would change flies if the bass are looking for something more active to chase. It also catches a ton of trout all summer.

Looking good. Should catch a lot of bass.

http://www.orvis.com/s/fly-fishing-guide-podcasts/4047

Thanks for the heads up

Beautiful fly!

is that what they call the flat wingstyle of tying? looks nice rich mc

Even though this wing is tied in flat, I would say that the name "flatwing" is most associated with Ken Abrames style of sparse bucktail-&-hackle flies in which long thin saddle hackles (1-3 usually) were tied in flat, usually as a tail--but also as a wing--to provide lots of movement and to imitate eels, herring, and other thin baitfish. See a book called A Perfect Fish: Illusions in Fly Tying by Abrames for more.

Here you go, Tom.

These are the fly patterns I used mostly. Weedguards were a must for fishing around mangrove trees and turtle grass.

Bonefish was actually oceanside in the Keys, but ate a monotone tan version of the same fly, except bigger beadchain & lighter hook to flip it over.

Spent 2 days in the Everglades:

Lunch of choice for South Florida anglers, plus my weak beverage choice for hydration

Nice flies, Tom. I like that you use beadchain eyes in the CF Minnow. I've been doing this lately on a fly similar to what you've tied as a CF Muddler. Beadchain has a rattle to it if you cut it yourself (the linkages fall into the beads when you cut it), and I think that has a positive effect on the fishiness of the fly. Had a lot of luck in the Everglades with that this winter.

Just wanted to share a good find. All Orvis Hydros fly lines--WF, DT, fresh, salt, trout, tarpon, smooth, textured, etc--are on sale for $49 right now in company stores and online. These are the best lines in O's lineup, so now's the time to grab a clean line for next season or try a new taper.

Good lookin bug

9' 8weight Redington fly rod in 2-piece configuration. Perfect for steelhead and browns right now or in Spring, plus throwing big bass bugs and such. Rod is in fantastic shape except the cork has some pitting. If you have some wood filler, it'll be nearly good as new.

Comes with a rod sock & Sage rod tube.

Only asking $45!

I suggest Orvis "All Rounder" and with the $25 coupons starting tomorrow through the 9th I believe, your $79 fly line is now $54, hard to beat. I too would line up 1 weight.

Jim gets it!

Great event. Thanks for organizing it. I had a fun time, and it was nice to see you guys as always.

I accidentally left my Nalgene water bottle behind. It is blue with a black cap and stickers on it. Did anyone happen to pick it up? It was under the sign-in table. I can cover shipping costs if you'd be so kind as to return it. Just PM me or call me at 330 309-3544. Thank you in advance.

And Tom, I think Ron's 1oz rod was an Orvis, not Sage