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Mark P

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Posts posted by Mark P

  1. Hello Rich.  I recall when we met at One More Cast.  I believe there was a small group of tyers there in the evening tying up some different patterns.  I also remember showing you how to furl some fat chenille because you wanted to fish a chenille worm.  I hope things have been going well for you and the group.

  2. I realized that I should have posted this in this section and not the member’s submission section... so...Its been a while since I’ve posted here as I have had my attention focused on other areas of fly tying and fly fishing.  In addition to having my fly tying work inducted into the Master’s Collection at the Catskill Fly Tying Museum and also being selected as a ProStaff or ProTyer for some very well known U.S. and European fly tying/fishing companies, I have been looking into a number of European fly tying material and tools companies who don’t have a presence in the U.S. market (yet).  There are a couple in particular that I would like to tell you about.  The first manufactures it’s own line of fly tying scissors.  The scissors are at least equal to those manufactured by companies like Dr. Slick with some of the design aspects being even better.  The costs are a fraction of those offered by Dr. Slick and they also offer laser engraving of your name or logo (or whatever you want) on the scissors for no additional cost.  (Think $5.00 vs. $18.00). Here is their website - www.sharpedgeinst.com

    Additionally, I’ve been talking with an inventor named Didier Samie, from France, who has developed and has been granted a U.S. patent for a bobbin holder.  The bobbin holder includes a set of retractable hooks used for creating dubbing loops and has an adjustable spool tensioner included in its design.  Didier has also developed a CDC/Hackle folding tool that works extremely well and is simple in it’s design.  It’s one of those tools where you ask yourself, why didn’t I think of that.

    Didiers website is www.hookbobbin.com if you are interested in looking into these tools further.

    Finally, I wanted to ensure that I stated that I am not receiving any form of compensation for helping these two organizations, but I am a member of their ProTeam.  My motives are simple, I”m trying to help my fly tying colleagues by informing them about some less costly alternatives, as well as some unique offerings.  We all know that fly tying is an expensive pursuit, and if this helps those on a budget or those just starting out, well I’m all for that.

  3. Its been a while since I’ve posted here as I have had my attention focused on other areas of fly tying and fly fishing.  In addition to having my fly tying work inducted into the Master’s Collection at the Catskill Fly Tying Museum and also being selected as a ProStaff or ProTyer for some very well known U.S. and European fly tying/fishing companies, I have been looking into a number of European fly tying material and tools companies who don’t have a presence in the U.S. market (yet).  There are a couple in particular that I would like to tell you about.  The first manufactures it’s own line of fly tying scissors.  The scissors are at least equal to those manufactured by companies like Dr. Slick with some of the design aspects being even better.  The costs are a fraction of those offered by Dr. Slick and they also offer laser engraving of your name or logo (or whatever you want) on the scissors for no additional cost.  (Think $5.00 vs. $18.00). Here is their website - www.sharpedgeinst.com

    Additionally, I’ve been talking with an inventor named Didier Samie, from France, who has developed and has been granted a U.S. patent for a bobbin holder.  The bobbin holder includes a set of retractable hooks used for creating dubbing loops and has an adjustable spool tensioner included in its design.  Didier has also developed a CDC/Hackle folding tool that works extremely well and is simple in it’s design.  It’s one of those tools where you ask yourself, why didn’t I think of that.

    Didiers website is www.hookbobbin.com if you are interested in looking into these tools further.

    Finally, I wanted to ensure that I stated that I am not receiving any form of compensation for helping these two organizations, but I am a member of their ProTeam.  My motives are simple, I”m trying to help my fly tying colleagues by informing them about some less costly alternatives, as well as some unique offerings.  We all know that fly tying is an expensive pursuit, and if this helps those on a budget or those just starting out, well I’m all for that.

  4. I have both the Rio Clouser and sink tip lines. The Clouser casts like a rocket. I don't own the SA Streamer Express developed by Kelly Galloup as its so new. Either one is great but the sink tip will get you down much deeper. You could also opt for the Clouser line with a sink tip made from Deep Water Express. I have made about a dozen sink tips ranging from 3' to 10' with Cortland loops on both ends that way I'm covered for all conditions.

  5. You should name that fly the "Butt Ugly"...

     

     

     

    Below you'll find my Hairless Mouse.

    Supplies needed

     

    Getting started

     

    Almost done.

     

    Just add paint and eyes.

    Don't forget to glue the the pieces together,

    the tail to the bottom and so on.

     

    I hope these work.

     

     

    I only did this because I have no idea how to tie deer hair.

  6. Personally, I'm not a fan of interchangeable tips. Depending on the lengths, sometimes they have a tendency to hinge. On shorter tips and shorter casts it might not be a big problem. If you're using longer sink tips and casting longer distances, I would definitely go with a sink-tip line. If you are fishing in different water column depths throughout the day, then carrying 2 lines and 2 spools would be most ideal.

     

    The loop to loop connections eliminate hinging.

     

  7. so do you use the tips and tie the directly to the fly>? or do you use a leader and tie them to the tips?

     

    Rio provides a welded loop connection on the fly line and the fly line end of all tips. I then place a rio woven loop connection to the leader/tippet end of the heads and attach the mono/floro to this. The connectors are sold in 4-6 packs (depending on the line weight) with heat shrink tubing, but always use a drop of Superglue at the shink tube to be safe.

     

    Use 3-4 feet of straight tippet only on the neutral density and sink tip heads. A leader is not needed as the weight of these lines will turn the fly over well and use your desired leader/tippet on the floating tip.

     

    Mark

  8. Hi Everybody,

     

    I'm fairly new to the site but I have a question especially for the fly fisherman. I'm thinking of experimenting with some different presentations this year and am wondering if any of you out there have some unique ideas. My go to choice is the cast upstream with a tungsten conehead fly and bounce the bottom. I've read in the Holschag book he is a big advocate for this style, although I could never get into his float recommendation. That always seemed to take a little of the challenge and purity out of it for me. I suppose another popular method is swinging the fly. How about any others? If not any others what would you consider your favorite method for smallies on the fly and why?

     

    Add one more step. Throw a downstream mend to get the fly going after the dead-drift and finish with a swing, let it hang for any shadower's, and strip back. Watch for the take after the hang down when you start to strip back.

     

    Mark

     

  9. In this particular case it has little to do with Smallmouth and everything to do with the spring and fall run of Salmon and Steelhead. Right now the dam is a very difficult obstacle for them to pass and very few make it. By removing the dam it opens up all the area above to these fish and the anglers and the land owners don't want the riff-raff.

     

    I have fished the run once there in the past and won't go back for several reasons, none of which has to do with the quality or quantity of fish.

     

    Mark

     

  10. Because the surface patterns are much larger for Smallies than they are for Trout and will resist being pulled under, you are open to picking any subsurface pattern you want.

     

    The hopper/dropper setup for trout isn't limited to only hoppers and Copper Johns as John Barr would lead you to believe. Any large dry like a Stimulator, Wulff, etc.. will work with most nymph patterns. The key for trout fishing is to find the combination that allows the dry to float well/naturally while trailing the nymph.

     

    Make sure you throw them with an open loop or you'll have a mess on your hands.

     

    MP

     

  11. Mark:

     

    If you dont' want to use the tape, which gives the Zonkers alot of weight and sink rate, try applying a loop of lead wire from the tail to the head to create the body shape and place the tubing over that. Less weight and it allows you to adjust the shape of the belly section.

     

    As for color combos, the belly is typically pearl or silver mylar braid with some patterns incorporating gold. The rabbit strip is typically black, olive or brown but you can use what ever you like. Don't forget about varigated strips. I'm sure Northerns would like them using red...

     

    Mark

     

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