Brad Miller

Nice fish, too bad about the rod.

Next time, just leave the fish in the water, we'll get the idea.

You probably killed that fish by removing much of its slime layer when laying it on a dry surface.

I'm sorry to buzz-kill the frivolity of a broken rod tip, but I do get tired of people having to show their fishing prowess by laying it on the ground, and then "releasing" it.

I believe there was a good piece in the bulletin awhile back on handling fish.

I've wrote my own version here: http://fly-fishing-s...before-release/.

This hook gap issue applies to all types of angling. I have been struggling with a popper body shape (bulbous with a deep recessed concave face). Standard hooks don't provide enough gap and the fish cannot get hooked, even though they attack the fly with zeal.

Here's what the fly looks like:

They look pretty but the hook gap is too small, so we're changing it. I'm going to try a Mustad 37187 which should provide enough distance behind the hook, as well as an elongated gap, to solidly hook fish. This is a standard hair bug hook and a bit hard to find.

Anyone having experience tying these bulbous bodied (Mini-Me's - Rainy's) flies, let me know what hooks you use. I'm interested in those of you that have fished them extensively and know for sure you get high percentage solid hook ups.

Thanks

Brad Miller

FlyBass.com

Wow, I'm a web developer and I'm really impressed with everything you guys do here.

This chat thing looks to be outstanding!

Nice job, Terry.

Let me know if you need any insight from the frozen tundra of Minnesota.

I'll add some length ideas. I run a nine foot leader with about a 30" tippet most of the season. This may be long for some folks, but it handles all kinds of water. The tipped need only be 10 -12# test. I like Maxima clear as it is relatively stiff and turns over well.

Make sure to spend a little time perfecting two kinds of knots:

1. Terminal connection knot, like the Clinch or (my favorite) the Swisher knot:
2. Loop knot:
   . These are especially good for poppers and other free moving flies.

Hi Steve,

If smallies won't hit poppers (which they may), don't give up on top water. Try some large terrestrials patterns like foam hopper patterns. We've found in Minnesota they work very well in late summer when the fish won't aggressively take poppers. The take is very subtle, like a trout - very cool.

Sounds like that would be worth making a trip for.....

Unfortunately, I live in Minnesota, so I'll miss this one.

Sorry, Jonn,

I'd love to hear your talk. What will you be discussing?

I have a couple of quick thoughts on the blockhead designs.

The ultra simple design, ala. the Lefty tie, will work and is effective. However, I like to add hackle for two reasons. The hackle it adds bulk to the whole process making a bit more commotion. And more importantly, the hackle can aid in suspension of the rear part of the hook. This is not a big deal when using a light wire hook, however as you tie my (or any other popper-type bodies) blockheads with heavier stainless hooks, the hackle will help ride the fly more horizontally and keep it from sinking down in the rear.

I also like the deer hair tail to extend at least one inch behind the hook to aid in flat flotation of the fly. A softer wing or tail material does not provide this level of support as material like marabou will stay wet and not dry with false casting as the squirrel hair will.

I've tested my Roadkill design with and without the supportive hackle and found the hackled fly to be superior. I use two hackle feathers with the height of the hackle fibers at or only slightly longer than the gap of the hook. As an added bonus, this double hackle will not cause the fly to spin and ruin your tippet, as we see too often with other hackle flies (the Stimulator comes to mine...). I believe this is partially due to the heavier 8 lb. test tippet (or greater) used for bass fishing. I also use these for baby tarpon and generally run at least a 20 lb. tippet for them.

I'll be interested on what you guys find out about these design variations this season!

<br />No new flies here since November? Everyone must be tying in secret for the Blowout contest. Or is everyone into ice fishing?<br /><br />Though my wife's recovery from surgery is still job 1, I did manage to fit in a few. the article on blockheads in the last bulletin inspired me to get some blockheads and try them out. I also figured out how to use the auction feature on my camera to put several views of one subject into one frame. Results.<br /><br />Lefty’s Blockhead<br /><img src="http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o46/MikeG742/MikeG2011/LeftysBlockhead.jpg" /><br />Miller's Roadkill pattern reminded me of Lefty's classic. I eliminated the hackling as Lefty would. <br /><br />Gerbubble Blockhead<br /><img src="http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o46/MikeG742/MikeG2011/GerbubbleBlockhead.jpg" /><br />This is a 4th incarnation of the Gerbubble Bug. The first from the 20s featured a balsa body gruved along the sides for hackle wiskers. Dave Whitlock reincarnated it as a deerhair bug with hackle wiskers along the sides. Dave Bartlett used a keystone shaped body with marabou wiskers. I was having trouble figuring out how to do the body till I saw the blockhead.<br /><br />Gabe Blockhead<br /><img src="http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o46/MikeG742/MikeG2011/GabeBlockhead.jpg" /><br />Yet another Gabe. The head just seems right for this fly. The banjo string brush guard goes with the theme. For best results hum, <i>"Froggy went a'courtin'..."</i> as you cast.<br />