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kbickley

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  1. In our experience, my wife and I think so highly of Murray's Hellgrammite that we call it "old faithful." Although a silver bead-head, white woolly bugger with silver flashabou in the tail has been a good fly over the past two summers.
  2. kbickley

    fly color

    Just two questions. Doesn't chartreuse "change color" when it's fished underwater, so that it becomes more of a "blueish" color? And doesn't the time of day that chartreuse is fished affect its "luminosity"? I guess I'm wondering how a "yellowish" chartreuse would differ from a "greenish" chartreuse when submerged. Sometimes I wonder if we shouldn't create some sort of fly-tying color wheel similar to the color wheel we used in art class!
  3. It sounds like you've tied a good pattern! Nothing like the feeling of catching fish on something you've tied. On what size hook did you tie the "crayfish" and what colors did you use, may I ask? Recipe?
  4. I've read parts of two of Holschlag's books on fishing for smallmouth ("Stream Smallmouth Fishing" and "Fly Fishing for Smallmouth") and I've spoken to him (once), and I think that he favors a kind of "impressionism" when it comes to tying smallmouth flies. So I'd say that I've benefitted from his expertise, and I agree that tying crayfish flies so they have the right movement in the water makes a lot of sense. Just a suggestion. In the last chapter of his book "Good Flies", John Gierach discusses a pattern he calls the "Mud Bug" (a fly that resembles Clouser's Foxee Red minnow) that he based on his experience of watching crawdads' behavior. He came to this conclusion when it comes to crayfish flies: "I got to watching crawdads in trout lakes and decided that most patterns were way more detailed than they had to be to catch fish, and possibly too visible, as well." I take this to mean that, not only must a fly have the right movement, it must have the right (i.e. muted) color as well.
  5. I agree with Rob. In my experience, a fly that gives the right "impression" to the fish works better than a fly tied to look like the real thing--"part for part," so to speak. So I've had success with bead-head, brown woolly buggers tied with "pumpkin"-colored rubber legs in the tail and on the shank. I've also experimented with Tim Holschlag's "Hackle Fly", but I've found it to be frustrating to fish. I've been tying Clouser minnows in preparation for the Fall "frenzy", and, since I'm in rhythm, now I'm ready to tie some Foxee Red flies (for next Summer) because they're meant to imitate crayfish.
  6. Brian, I've no doubt that the fly works with the crappies because I'm guessing that it has action similar to a tube jig. I think that we're tying similar flies because it appears that we're using the same chenille and giving the fly extra weight with the wraps of lead wire. I've also used both the pearl krystal flash and pearl flashabou in the tail. I've been substituting silver flashabou and clipping it about 1/2 inch longer than the marabou and I think that this may give the fly both some extra action and flash (on sunny days). I like the idea of using the cone head because it may bring even more flash. I use TMC 200R's to tie crayfish imitations, so I'll have to give them a try. Keith
  7. Brian, I've been using a similar bugger tied on a #6 Mustad 9672, and I've had great success catching larger smallies in small streams. I'm wondering: Have you tried using silver flashabou in the tail? I've been using a bead head instead of a cone, but I'll definitely try using this variation. Thanks for the picture. Keith
  8. Hi Mark, I don't whether or not you're familiar with this site, but I'll throw it out as a suggestion because I'm constantly visiting it: http://www.warmwaterflytyer.com Not only does this site give recipes and step-by-step guides for panfish flies, but there are quite a few bass patterns too. kb
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