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Best leader knots


BenG

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I was wondering what best leader knots are. I have been using blood knots for line to line knots and now since taking up fly fishing splicing leaders. I recently learned double surgeons knot which seems eaiser but weaker.

 

I went trout fishing this weekend and lost a bunck of fish and flies with surgeon knots. I don't know if it was knot or that I was using flourocarbon as last piece of tippet.

 

Any preference on knots?

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Ben, I personally use a 2X 10 lb. test tapered leader and tie on a piece of 6 or 8 lb. test fluorocarbon tippet via double surgeon's knot. It works for me. I have a friend who ties his own leaders and uses a tool that aids in tying his blood knots. I just don't like all those knots collecting moss and debri and of course then there are more weak links to break. And for another view on the subject, I met a smallie guide up north in WI who simply ties on a 9 to 12 ft. piece of 6 or 8 lb. test flourocarbon monofilament (like Berkley Vanish) directly to the flyline loop and then to his fly.

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I was wondering what best leader knots are. I have been using blood knots for line to line knots and now since taking up fly fishing splicing leaders. I recently learned double surgeons knot which seems eaiser but weaker.

 

I went trout fishing this weekend and lost a bunck of fish and flies with surgeon knots. I don't know if it was knot or that I was using flourocarbon as last piece of tippet.

 

Any preference on knots?

IM me and I'll send you a electronic copy of a program I've put on regarding knots. It lists the pros and cons of each knot and photos (some step by step) of how to tie the knots. My personal preference is to use a loop to loop connection from the fly line to the leader, a double uni-knot for line to line connections, and an Orvis knot to tie the fly on. I use a non-slip mono loop if I want a loop connection to the fly. These knots have never failed me.

 

As for Berkley Vanish fluorocarbon... I'd run as far and fast as possible from that line. When I worked at Bass Pro we had nothing but problems with that line breaking too easily especially at knots and that was using ANY knot including the knots recommended by Berkley. I think the line may be too brittle and not ductile enough, but that would require some quantitative testing, possibly Instron. If you want a good fluorocarbon use either P-Line or Seaguar.

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IM me and I'll send you a electronic copy of a program I've put on regarding knots. It lists the pros and cons of each knot and photos (some step by step) of how to tie the knots. My personal preference is to use a loop to loop connection from the fly line to the leader, a double uni-knot for line to line connections, and an Orvis knot to tie the fly on. I use a non-slip mono loop if I want a loop connection to the fly. These knots have never failed me.

 

As for Berkley Vanish fluorocarbon... I'd run as far and fast as possible from that line. When I worked at Bass Pro we had nothing but problems with that line breaking too easily especially at knots and that was using ANY knot including the knots recommended by Berkley. I think the line may be too brittle and not ductile enough, but that would require some quantitative testing, possibly Instron. If you want a good fluorocarbon use either P-Line or Seaguar.

May I have a copy of your program regarding knots. Thank you. TO: Benjamin@mtco.com

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Ben,

 

I use a double surgeon's knot exclusively for tying on tippets 4x and larger. Never had any problems. With 5x or smaller I use a blood knot. It is critical to give any knot the "taste test" before cinching it down. That is, stick it in your mouth and lubricate it good with saliva, then cinch it. If you don't, heat will build through friction when cinching and significantly weaken the mono. When this happens, the line will typically break right next to the knot. :(

 

Brian

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I have started using a piece of mono or flourocarbon line as long as my rod and have been doing just as good as a tapered leader and if it gets bad I can throw it away and get a new one and not have the expense of tapered leader thanks for the tip. I will save tapered leaders for the trout.

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I have started using a piece of mono or flourocarbon line as long as my rod and have been doing just as good as a tapered leader and if it gets bad I can throw it away and get a new one and not have the expense of tapered leader thanks for the tip. I will save tapered leaders for the trout.

Ben

Based on your initial post you're apparently new to flyfishing.You're getting off on the wrong foot by not using tapered leaders.They are an essential piece of equipment in order to enhance one's casting skills by allowing much better turnover(i.e. straightening out of the leader & fly) than a straight leader can.They only cost about $4 & will last for many tippet changes by using various connection methods such as a loop- loop when attaching a new tippet to the leader.You can save $ by using non fluorcarbon leaders to which fluorocarbon tippets can be added if you like for clear water conditions.Everyone using floro should know that not all knots that work well with mono will work well with floro.

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