Jump to content

Epoxy Advice


Ben Lubchansky
 Share

Recommended Posts

I am just beginning to meddle with epoxy and have no intention of becoming anything other than an itinerant user. Any recommendations on styles, brands etc. that best suit a fly tyers needs? For example the syringe type seems to not respond well to small batch use, sitting, and then using at a later date. Thanks for the input.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am just beginning to meddle with epoxy and have no intention of becoming anything other than an itinerant user. Any recommendations on styles, brands etc. that best suit a fly tyers needs? For example the syringe type seems to not respond well to small batch use, sitting, and then using at a later date. Thanks for the input.

 

Ben,

 

Epoxies are all two part-resin and catalyst. After mixing usually 50-50, cure times vary from fast (5 minutes) to overnight (8-12 Hours). A draw back with some formulations is yellowing over time, which is fine, if you are using it as an adhesive, and not fine if you are using it as a coating. Though it cures slowly, Flex-Coat, a product designed for rod building, is formulated to avoid yellowing. Bob clouser recommends it in his book. For a perfectly smooth finish a drying wheel is also recommended.

 

That being said, I do not worry about the yellowing. I buy a medium fast curing two part from the hardware store. It comes in a container that looks like two syringes stuck together which makes it easy to dole out. I mix two equal globs on a scrap of aluminum foil. I try to apply a smooth coat with a camel hair brush and skip the drying wheel. Since I am not selling the flies, I am not worried about the dreaded "runs." Laquer thinner or rubbing alcohol cleans up the brush as long as you get to it before it hardens.

 

What are you using it for anyway?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure if we're on the same page as to what you want to do with it but I'm with Mike, in that I tend to use rod finish epoxy as it dries chrystal clear and no bubbles, but then I tend to always have some around since I build rods as well. The only bad thing is that I feel I need to tie a dozen or so flies at a time and then mix my finish so as not to be too wasteful.

 

IMG_2066.jpg?t=1265904542

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats a pretty little streamer Rob! Mike, I am looking to use the epoxy to coat heads for Bob's Bangers that I made by rolling round, foam caulk backing in self adhesive prismatic paper from the craft store. I get 1' of cool looking head material at a time and cut the heads to fit. I'd attach a photo but my camer's images are too large - sorry. The backer rod is more accessable, easier, and cheaper than buying 1" closed cell foam heads and cutting the paper to fit - but I think durability will be a factor. Although an instant classic saltwater fly by Bob Popovics, ( I go home to the East Coast annually and get in the salt) the Banger looks like a winner for freshwater bass too. It is easy to tie, darts and splutters in the water, and casts like a bullet for its size. Anyway, I am coating the heads after assembling them and I think that will give me the needed durability. However - I do not like toxic materials in my home near my kids ( or near my brain for that matter), epoxy is messy, and moreover the fused syringe type seems to have fused itself between uses. Any recommendation on specific brands? Have you used Loon Hard Head? There is also an intriguing product called tuffleye - but it is expensive to get into ($80+) and I'm not that interested. Ditto for a rotator. Perhaps working in batches, outside, is the way to go.

Thanks guys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats a pretty little streamer Rob! Mike, I am looking to use the epoxy to coat heads for Bob's Bangers that I made by rolling round, foam caulk backing in self adhesive prismatic paper from the craft store. I get 1' of cool looking head material at a time and cut the heads to fit. I'd attach a photo but my camer's images are too large - sorry. The backer rod is more accessable, easier, and cheaper than buying 1" closed cell foam heads and cutting the paper to fit - but I think durability will be a factor. Although an instant classic saltwater fly by Bob Popovics, ( I go home to the East Coast annually and get in the salt) the Banger looks like a winner for freshwater bass too. It is easy to tie, darts and splutters in the water, and casts like a bullet for its size. Anyway, I am coating the heads after assembling them and I think that will give me the needed durability. However - I do not like toxic materials in my home near my kids ( or near my brain for that matter), epoxy is messy, and moreover the fused syringe type seems to have fused itself between uses. Any recommendation on specific brands? Have you used Loon Hard Head? There is also an intriguing product called tuffleye - but it is expensive to get into ($80+) and I'm not that interested. Ditto for a rotator. Perhaps working in batches, outside, is the way to go.

Thanks guys.

Ben,

 

Without a picture, I am having a hard time visualizing what you are trying to do. The stuff I am using now is called "Clear Weld Two Ton Epoxy." I got it at Ace. For the record I use it for the following applications:

 

Fix moma's figurines

Coat jig heads and fly heads

Coat foam head bugs

Glue cork rings together for reel seats

Finish guide windings on new and repaired rods

And anything else that needs fixing

 

I appreciate your concern about the kids. But I do not think epoxy, which has been around for a long time, will send then to an early grave. By now the lawyers would be in tht hunt.

 

Sorry I cannot give more insight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...