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Question on adhesives?


Rob G
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Does anyone remember which adhesive Greg liked to use to get those flat 2-D eyes to adhere to the foam popper bodies. I remember one was used in the automotive industry and I thought there was another but you know, old age and all.......... now what was I talking about?

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Rich, I think that was one of them mentioned. Thanks

 

I found a few that work:

GOOP

Gel-Type Super Glue (fast setting and easier to work wtih than regular Super Glue)

Z-Poxy

Epoxy

 

In addition to these I ran across one that works well and it's available from Michael's that's called Beacon's 3-IN-1 Advanced Craft Glue. It's fast drying, adheres quickly, and isn't thin and runny.

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I found the power poxy in the automotive section at Farm and Fleet, just as Greg mentioned. Jury is still out if I like it better than marine/plumber goop. I will have to see how well the eyes stay on when the fly is worked on the end of a fly line.

 

I will say one thing about the power poxy, you need to hold the eye in place for at least 30 seconds.

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Jonn, I used Stix-On Contact many years ago. It seems they thinned it down from what I used to use. I think it's still the same stuff, but it is a little thinner than it used to be. Thing is, when I used to use Flex-a-ment (available at most fly shops), the eyes would get knocked off pretty easily. Also, if you opened, and used it, it would dry out after just a couple months. That was common enough that they also sold Flex-a-ment thinner, to rejouvenate the Flexament. I never have to worry about that with the Stix-On Contact. And, at a $1.79/tube, it's a the cheaper AND stronger alternative. I have not used Goop BUT...Flexament IS thinned down Goop!!! Got that info from Tom Yocum (fly shop owner) about 10 years ago.

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Another thing I've used quite a bit is Softex. After completing the fly and applying stick-on eyes, I'll dip the fly head in the softex and let it dry. The stuff dries to a flat finish, which I don't really care for, but once under water I suppose it doesn't make a difference. The stuff is flexible and tough as nails.

 

The downside is that the stuff tends to thicken in the jar over time. The solution: It is toulene based. I bought a gallon can of toulene at Menard's and can thin it to whatever consistancy I need. I can thin it a lot & use it in place of Flexament to coat feathers. Stinks bad, though. Good for a cheap high, if you're so inclined... B)

 

Brian

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Not quite as sweet as Greg's but I think it will fish. BTW, the Goop seems like it takes quite a while to cure, didn't care for that as much, it's probably better if not in a rush.

I think that it would work just fine, where I use it. Though, I think that an Angel Hair tail would get ripped up rather quickly. And, might foul around the hook shank rather easily. I use bucktail for the reason that it doesn't foul as bad as softer materials.

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Good point Greg, maybe I'll tie up a couple with white buck tail, and just mix in a little flash. I was looking for that sputtering, glittering minnow dance on the top water. My standard black popper bodies, I tend to use a couple pair of hackle which imitate swimming legs so I'm looking to do something different with this one, more minnowish.

 

question: if I use a ultra fine sharpie in red to make a " ( " for a gill, do I have to cover that area with a sealant or will it hold up to the water with rinsing out. Mind you it's going to end up in a bush or tree well before it probably makes it to the water but just in case I get lucky.......

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Guest airbornemike

Not quite as sweet as Greg's but I think it will fish. BTW, the Goop seems like it takes quite a while to cure, didn't care for that as much, it's probably better if not in a rush.

Rob I second the DNA, try it if you find the angel hair isn't durable or stiff enough. I also mix it with other materials for tail applications, but the DNA works niceby itself for streamers like clousers and bend back style flys.

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