Jump to content

Bait caster Line


Frank Briggs

Recommended Posts

Just looking for some info on what lines people are using on their reels. I know this may have been covered before but new lines come out all the time. Thank you for your input Frank

 

I like mono on a baitcaster. Right now I use 12# Trilene XL because I have gotten so many free spools. I want to use them up. When I run out I will try 10# Big Game. On a Baitcaster Superlines seem to be more trouble for me though I use them when I want 30# or more breaking strength. Watch the diameters. For example 12# XL is .013 in. while 12 # XT (frequently the Pro's favorite) is .015 in. Big Game splits the difference at .014 :wacko:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

anything under 12# usually causes problems..i use 12# trilene xt, 15# big game, 30# power pro, and 50# power pro for the heavy stuff..just started trying Seaguar Red Label Fluorocarbon in 12#, not sure if the fluoro makes a difference yet but have had no issues with it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Call me crazy but I prefer 20-25lb braid, preferably power pro. Probably because I would destroy spool after spool picking out bird nests of mono and I like the way it lays on the reel better. Being able to pull out of snags is a bonus.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Years ago you'd rarely hear of a stream smallmouth fisherman using heavier monos or superlines. Those were reserved for Canada, etc. Now it has become the norm. Thinking harpoons might be next! :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20lb is way overkill for a 3 lb fish as far as what's needed. I am using that test because it seems baitcatsers work better with that weight of superline not because it's needed to land the fish.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Must remember that with braid, even 20 pound line has very small diameter as compared to mono. I use 20 on the baitcasters as well. Why not, as I am always slinging fast moving baits with my baitcaster. Fish could care less how heavy your line is as the swim jig, spinnerbait, crankbait, etc. is whizzing by them in the current.

 

I used to be a light line guy, but have found that river smallies could care less if the line is visible to them or not. River bass are looking at your lure, not your line.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am a huge fan of braid on most of my reels because i am a big soft plastic fisherman and the increased sensitivity truly showed in the number of fish I bring to hand. Mind you I use atleast a six foot flouro leader usually in 10 or 12lb to keep that braid out of the fishes view. You do need to watch out for the new coated lines. I have read and seen a lot of cases where your line will build up on the side walls and roll over causing an impossible birds nest. I will say the new Nanofil and Power Pro Super Slick 8 are some amazing lines but i would stick to those on your spinning set ups.

 

My opinion on the mono versus flouro for main line:

Mono for one is the more economical way to go and works well in a lot of situations. The downside I have found are needing to treat the line more often(If you weren't aware mono actually does soak up water and degrades the line over time. Soak a length of mono over a day and check the difference in breaking strength) mono also has bouyant properties so you will get a slower fall on light baits and more current pulling on that line with it hanging higher in the water column(all the fly fishing types can attest to that theory) The last property to consider with mono is the stretch of mono. if making long casts across current I have found I have missed hook sets by the time I pick up the line straightening the bow from the current and the extra stretch not driving the hook home.

With flouro the first deterrent is the price tag on the wall at the store. With that factor out of the way you will have line that sinks faster to allow those light craws and tubes to get in to the strike zone. Conversely I prefer mono when fishing topwater to keep that bait's nose from hanging down when walking the dog or running a popper. While I know most of my fishing is done on the fox and I don't feel I need to hide my line as much, if i step over to the Kishwaukee or the Dupage I have more confidence in no spooking fish with the line. Lastly is the lower stretch on flouro that allows me to gain contact faster to the hook point when i pick up my line.

 

just my .02

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice write up Jesse. There are a lot of things to consider, that's for sure.

 

With all those choices it is interesting that in a BASS event most pros will have 6 rods all strung with 12# XT occasionally swapping out one for for a lighter 8# spinning rod or heavier 50# flipping rod adapted to specific local conditions. They stick with what they know works. (BTW if a pro has a sweet deal with a line Mfgr, he will be an exception to the above rule.) Dance with the one that brought you.

 

In fishing this is where science meets religion. Lots of answers to the same question.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am a huge fan of braid on most of my reels because i am a big soft plastic fisherman and the increased sensitivity truly showed in the number of fish I bring to hand. Mind you I use atleast a six foot flouro leader usually in 10 or 12lb to keep that braid out of the fishes view. You do need to watch out for the new coated lines. I have read and seen a lot of cases where your line will build up on the side walls and roll over causing an impossible birds nest. I will say the new Nanofil and Power Pro Super Slick 8 are some amazing lines but i would stick to those on your spinning set ups.

 

My opinion on the mono versus flouro for main line:

Mono for one is the more economical way to go and works well in a lot of situations. The downside I have found are needing to treat the line more often(If you weren't aware mono actually does soak up water and degrades the line over time. Soak a length of mono over a day and check the difference in breaking strength) mono also has bouyant properties so you will get a slower fall on light baits and more current pulling on that line with it hanging higher in the water column(all the fly fishing types can attest to that theory) The last property to consider with mono is the stretch of mono. if making long casts across current I have found I have missed hook sets by the time I pick up the line straightening the bow from the current and the extra stretch not driving the hook home.

With flouro the first deterrent is the price tag on the wall at the store. With that factor out of the way you will have line that sinks faster to allow those light craws and tubes to get in to the strike zone. Conversely I prefer mono when fishing topwater to keep that bait's nose from hanging down when walking the dog or running a popper. While I know most of my fishing is done on the fox and I don't feel I need to hide my line as much, if I step over to the Kishwaukee or the Dupage I have more confidence in no spooking fish with the line. Lastly is the lower stretch on flouro that allows me to gain contact faster to the hook point when i pick up my line.

 

just my .02

 

The makers of flouro line did a wonderful job of marketing. They were sure to include a number of myths about the line which will not go away. One is that it has low stretch. Most flouro lines stretch the same amount as mono, which is around 10%. Some of the premium lines stretch just a little less other lines a little more. A second myth is that the lines are invisible under water. Flourocarbon is clear, in sheets. In a fishing line it's as visible as mono. Plus, no one has shown that even if a bass can see the line, that it has the reasoning ability to figure out that the line is bad. If they could, how come they can't figure out that the hunk of wood, plastic or feathers with treble hooks hanging from it is not real food?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree that the diameter of the line is not something that a river fish will notice. One thing to consider in the type of lure you fish and how the diameter of the line effects the action. It could be twitching a jerkbait, walking the dog, and the depth a crankbait will run can all be affected by the line you use.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree that the diameter of the line is not something that a river fish will notice.

 

Paul and Scott, I agree with much of what you say but as a fly fisherman during the months of late June, July and beyond, I really think that when the water is low, slow, and clear, all those little things like line or leader diameter, leader length, etc. can have a profound effect on your success. One of the best smallie guides that I look up to swears that lengthening your leader (12 ft or more) and lengthening your cast really pays off during those times on the river.

 

Oh and I'm using a ton of fluoro because I bought the hype, PT Barnum would have loved me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For the last few years, I've tried tons of braids, but I like power pro the best. I've had the same 10 lbs hi-vis yellow power pro on my favorite rod for about 4 years! That would be impossible with mono! I always use a uni to uni knot to tie on about a 6 foot length of fluorocarbon to the end for a leader. This way you get the sensitivity of braid with the low visibility of the fluoro.

On a recent trip, I out-fished my friend 4-1. We were both using braid, but he did not tie on a fluoro leader.

Btw, I have never lost a fish at the uni to uni knot.

To Rob G.'s point, I was fishing for smallies in door county last October and extra long fluoro leaders really paid off. I would retie if I got down to less than 6 feet, which was a lot because of all of the zebra mussel break offs!

Diameter matters when jigging, not so much for other techniques.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I also use 20 lb. Sufix 832 on my baitcasters for every application except topwaters especially "walk the dog" baits. After experimenting with topwaters using braid on my baitcasters last year the baits got tangled up too much, and I never could get the baits walking quite right. I switched back to 14 lb. Berkley Trilene Sensation this year.

 

As far as the heavier braid, I still set my drag as I would when using a lighter line. Since braid has little to no stretch, unless that smallie is able to pull out some line when making a hard run it's much more likely the hook is going to pull out. In the end, the fight is the same.

 

I agree with Scott and Jonn. I've never had any problems with the braid "spooking" the fish when fishing the DuPage and the Kish despite the clearer water. I even use 10 lb. Sufix 832 (Lo Vis Moss Green) with no leader on my spinning outfits when finesse fishing small plastics and landed plenty of fish in the 17"-19" range last year.

 

I too used lighter lines in the past worried about visibility, etc. At least for river smallies, it doesn't seem to make a difference. My guess is river smallies only have seconds (sometimes fractions of a second) to decide whether or not to strike before the current carries potential prey away from them. Not to mention the river current is constantly carrying bits of this and that downstream. Even if the fish can see the line it isn't going to think that it's any different than the other harmless bits of stuff that are constantly floating downstream.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...