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Articulated & Shank Flies


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Mike,

same fly as above but I had gone to stainless hooks after taking a cue from Tom L. and so I used a pair of Mustad 34007 size 4's. The rear portion is gone and I stripped the schlappen from the anterior portion of the fly to verify that it wasn't my wire along the shank that had slipped or broken but in fact it was right at the loop. Now I know I shouldn't be too disappointed since the fly got a good work out (though 2/3 of the smallies were dinks) but I would hate to lose a really good fish or lose my fly if the posterior hook gets hung up on a rock. Again, thanks for your input.

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Rob, I've been using piano wire, size 8, to connect my articulate flies. Original, I got this wire to be used as weed guards; but I found out later that it was too stiff for that purpose. So, I tried to find other use for it and found that it made great connections for artic flies.

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Rob,

 

Since you reported your trouble, I took a closer look at the .018" 7 strand Beadalon that I use. I think it can be compared to 7 strand Surflon though the smallest diameter Surflon I could find is .024". That tests out at 20 pounds. So our .018 diameter would come in at 12 pounds if strength depends on cross sectional area. Sounds kinda light. I was thinking that uncoated AFW 7 strand leader wire would give us some flexibility. And the .018" stuff is 45 pound test. It might make a decent brush guard too. Netcraft sells a 30 ft coil for $3.99. (The AFW solid #8 wire (86lb) is $2.39 for 30 ft.

 

BTW Kelly Galloup's Q&A #4 is full of insight on articulated flies. It bears repeating.

 

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Rob,

 

In another thread we were discussing whether a fly could be worth $7.99 a copy. I think you have one worth at least that or more. But you are getting some bad advice to stop here. Successful businesses operate on a policy of continuous improvement. If everyone just stopped when they found something good, we would all be driving Model Ts and wearing glass glasses. Bamboo rods, silk lines, and gut leaders were the latest greatest 100 years ago. Don't stop now; there's a $10-12 bug just over the horizon.

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Guest rich mc

I could see tying that with the eyelash yarn like my flash shad. currently I have an extended furled tail on a single hook . having that extra hook may mean more hookups. not to mention a little faster sink rate rich mc

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  • 1 month later...

Yea, the rod I built a couple years ago, on a very fast MHX 9ft 5wt blank, but the reel I've had for a few years. When Orvis was clearing out their older model Battenkill large arbor design reels, I grabbed a couple.

Rob, how do you like the MHX 5 wt blank, and do you have any experience with the 7 wt MHX?

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John,

I love the rod and it has become my go-to 5 wt for bass. It is very light weight and powerful, also has a fast tip that I like but others may not. I have not built the 7 wt. in that series but I have built a 9 ft. 3 wt. for trout/panfish and also a 7.5 ft 4 wt. trout rod for tighter quarters. All three rods are very light weight, high modulus, and faster blanks, I'm sure the 7 wt is no different. If you're familiar with the "Common Cents" system of quantifying rods, they do make that data available for all their blanks and if not, I can translate it for you. This winter, I'm going to build on another of the MHX blanks but not sure just yet which one. Maybe we can have a rod building party.

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Tom,

 

I would like to ask for a two part class this winter on how you build/tie these articulated flies???

 

These are damn sexy flies.

 

Regards,

Allen

Sure, Allen. If there are interest, we can plan on tying these over the winter in one of those John L's tying nights.

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Mike, let's see if we can't improve this puppy. I've added a Zoo Cougar like spun deer hair head to this fly in order to see if I can get it to wag that schlappen even more so. Hopefully I'll get a chance to cast it this weekend but I wonder if Woody would approve, ha.

 

027ab.jpg

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Tom,

a quick question for you, did you find that those beautiful spun deer hair articulated flies that you tied would sink much at all without the barbell eyes? The fly I tied above wouldn't begin to sink until I had stripped it almost all of the way back in. It darts erratically as desired but remains on the surface or just beneath, which makes for a nice surface fly but I was looking to get a little more diving action out of it. I was hoping that I would not be forced to fish a sink tip line. Thanks for your input.

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