Mike G

It could save your rod.

Here’s the problem: The male and female section ends of rod ferrules can become loose after repeated casting. The ferrule is the part of the rod that joins the sections of the rod together. The hollow (female) portion at the end of a rod section receives the male end of the next section. After a time the male end can slip to the very edge of the female end and when enough pressure is applied (like a hard cast), it can actually crack or “blow out” the blank wall, resulting in a broken rod.

Here’s the solution: Many manufactures actually give you a little package of paraffin wax to help keep your rod pieces together when you buy a rod. Take this wax before the first time you use your rod and apply it to all of the male sides of the ferrules. If the manufacturer doesn’t provide you with any,  simply get a candle or chunk of beeswax and gently brush it forward towards the top of the male ferrule, coating the entire piece. If your rod is old and has been used bunch remember to clean out the female side with a Q-tip or something similar before applying wax.

Now your rod pieces should hold together much longer and tighter, minimizing the chance of a silly rod break.

http://midcurrent.co...42f263-18956357

We don't have the fanciest web page, but it is the only one in Illinois with a Fly Fisherman right on the top.

- http://www.lake-summerset.com/

I see a lot of guys itching to spend some $$$$ (4 figures) on the new fishing Kayaks and looking for some ideas on comparative models. Here is my long view on the topic.

I will start with a saying from a kayak review, "If you want to loose weight, weigh yourself on a scale at a kayak factory." Some reviewers are, shall we say, skeptical about the manufacturer's suggested weights. Though we think of a kayak or canoe as carrying us on the water, we have to carry it on the land. How far is it from the parking spot to the water? What if you want to portage it? That is where weight comes in and factors larger and bigger over time. Even the manufacturer's weight of most of the fishing model kayaks is around 80 pounds similar to the 80-90 pound aluminum and fiberglass canoes I used for many years. Equipped with a yoke I portaged them a mile or two on some trips. And even at that weight they are easy enough to lift to the level of racks on a car top. But then... 

My long view says that things will change over time. First I changed, and carrying 80 pounds got to be more of a challenge though I can still do it. Then cars changed, and solo hoisting that 80 pounds up to the top of an SUV is not as easy as sliding a canoe off your shoulders to a waiting car top. There are two solutions to the problem of weight. One is buying a fancy roller rack for the SUV. The other is Kevlar. A little over ten years ago a bought a 15 ft, 35 pound (UL) solo canoe. Besides being easy to lift, the Wenonah model I bought is lightening on the water. That equates to more time fishing and less time paddling. Too bad they did not have the kayak version back then.

So the long view comes down to this. Over the long haul an extra 45 or 50 pounds is going to get to you and limit your range. There are Kevlar kayaks like the Canak, that cut the weight in half and can truly become a lifetime craft for you along with being something your wife and kids can manage. In the short view they are more expensive; in the long view they are a bargain.  

http://www.wenonah.c...ail.php?IID=245

PS if you gotta stand, there are always sponsons.

Being on the e-copy distribution for the bulletin let me get an early look at the latest edition. It really is spectacular starting with the  cover. (Compare it to the cover of, say, the June 2012 issue, and you will get what I mean. Move over Eric )  Full color in the hardcopy has to really help. This bulletin would definitely be a hit at the outdoor shows this winter. I am proud to see one of my photos made it. Good job to all.

http://addins.wrex.c...ril-2013-floods

You can now fish downtown Rockford literally. No need for GPS as street address will do.